The next morning, I wandered into the village center, drawn by the sound of laughter from a small café. Inside, a couple in their mid-40s caught my eye—him with a salt-and-pepper beard and a woolen jumper, her with curly auburn hair tied back and a scarf fluttering in the breeze from the open door. They were poring over a map, debating routes. I ordered a coffee and sat nearby, eavesdropping unintentionally. 'The beaches are fine, but wait till you hear the choirs in the valleys,' the man said. Intrigued, I chimed in: 'Choirs? I thought Wales was all about surfing and castles.' They turned, smiling. 'I'm Rhys, this is my wife, Eleri,' he introduced. 'And you're spot on about the castles, but stick around—we'll show you the real magic.' We chatted for an hour, and before I knew it, they invited me to join their hike up to Swallow Falls. |