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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby." Which end of Southampton are you in? If you're West head towards the new forest. I would suggest mtb rather than road to you though as you have good upper body strength. Upper body strength is a bonus for mtb as its much more technical than just pedalling along. Where as extra muscle on a road bike is just a hindrance. (And a bigger target for cars!) | |||
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"I have a red Bobbin Birdie bike, she has a two toned ringer bell and a wicker basket. " One of mine has 8 inches of travel...... | |||
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"I have a red Bobbin Birdie bike, she has a two toned ringer bell and a wicker basket. One of mine has 8 inches of travel......" You’ve 8 inches and will travel? | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. Which end of Southampton are you in? If you're West head towards the new forest. I would suggest mtb rather than road to you though as you have good upper body strength. Upper body strength is a bonus for mtb as its much more technical than just pedalling along. Where as extra muscle on a road bike is just a hindrance. (And a bigger target for cars!)" Hmm interesting. I try not to overbalance the upper body/legs. Of equal importance for rowing. I hear you though. | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. Which end of Southampton are you in? If you're West head towards the new forest. I would suggest mtb rather than road to you though as you have good upper body strength. Upper body strength is a bonus for mtb as its much more technical than just pedalling along. Where as extra muscle on a road bike is just a hindrance. (And a bigger target for cars!) Hmm interesting. I try not to overbalance the upper body/legs. Of equal importance for rowing. I hear you though. " You look like you’ve got very good upper body strength in your pics of your back/ass — almost as if you’ve got shoulder/arm strength that could throw me round a room. In a good way. Apologies I went to perv after reading Clem’s comment. Did you, Clem? | |||
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"Hmmm. Tense. Cycles off quickly into the sunset. " Past tense. | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. Which end of Southampton are you in? If you're West head towards the new forest. I would suggest mtb rather than road to you though as you have good upper body strength. Upper body strength is a bonus for mtb as its much more technical than just pedalling along. Where as extra muscle on a road bike is just a hindrance. (And a bigger target for cars!) Hmm interesting. I try not to overbalance the upper body/legs. Of equal importance for rowing. I hear you though. You look like you’ve got very good upper body strength in your pics of your back/ass — almost as if you’ve got shoulder/arm strength that could throw me round a room. In a good way. Apologies I went to perv after reading Clem’s comment. Did you, Clem? " He's not my cup of tea. | |||
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"If you want to give cycling a go id recommended keeping away from roads. Get onto the trails." Went on a dirty weekend in Wales. Absolutely knackering, shame I wasn’t as fit as I am now. I’d definitely have enjoyed it more as a fit 53 year old than a fat 33year old. | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. Which end of Southampton are you in? If you're West head towards the new forest. I would suggest mtb rather than road to you though as you have good upper body strength. Upper body strength is a bonus for mtb as its much more technical than just pedalling along. Where as extra muscle on a road bike is just a hindrance. (And a bigger target for cars!) Hmm interesting. I try not to overbalance the upper body/legs. Of equal importance for rowing. I hear you though. " You could always gve track a go. With that much power and no hills you;d adapt pretty quickly | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby." What sort of budget? Btwin (decathlon own brand) or Boardman would get my vote | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. Which end of Southampton are you in? If you're West head towards the new forest. I would suggest mtb rather than road to you though as you have good upper body strength. Upper body strength is a bonus for mtb as its much more technical than just pedalling along. Where as extra muscle on a road bike is just a hindrance. (And a bigger target for cars!) Hmm interesting. I try not to overbalance the upper body/legs. Of equal importance for rowing. I hear you though. You could always gve track a go. With that much power and no hills you;d adapt pretty quickly" That's a good shout, and he has one local to him. | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. What sort of budget? Btwin (decathlon own brand) or Boardman would get my vote" Go second hand. Buy someone else's fad. | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. What sort of budget? Btwin (decathlon own brand) or Boardman would get my vote Go second hand. Buy someone else's fad. " it's a cutthroat market second-hand and you get far better deals as so many are against the idea. Today's ultegra is tomorrow's 105 in the new season and let's not forget it's the engine that really counts. | |||
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"Hmmm. Not sure about getting dirty. I reserve that for other pastimes. Talk to me about a reasonable starter road bike. I have a halfway decent Specialized hybrid jobby. What sort of budget? Btwin (decathlon own brand) or Boardman would get my vote Go second hand. Buy someone else's fad. it's a cutthroat market second-hand and you get far better deals as so many are against the idea. Today's ultegra is tomorrow's 105 in the new season and let's not forget it's the engine that really counts." Exactly. And as soon as disc brakes on road bikes become the norm you just wait for the price of anything with traditional brakes to plummet! | |||
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"I use strava works great for me. I started with a Broadman aluminium then upgraded to Specialized Carbon which I love. Cleats take a bit of getting use to put wouldnt go back now. Also when spinning I use cycling shoes now. Merry Christmas everyone x" I have Strava too, my watch syncs to it but apparently this bit of kit gives you extra stats lol | |||
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"I use strava works great for me. I started with a Broadman aluminium then upgraded to Specialized Carbon which I love. Cleats take a bit of getting use to put wouldnt go back now. Also when spinning I use cycling shoes now. Merry Christmas everyone x I have Strava too, my watch syncs to it but apparently this bit of kit gives you extra stats lol " I have my Garmin Connect account linked with my Strava account, just need a cadence sensor and that will be all the data I need for now... untill I want to get a power meter lol | |||
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"I use strava works great for me. I started with a Broadman aluminium then upgraded to Specialized Carbon which I love. Cleats take a bit of getting use to put wouldnt go back now. Also when spinning I use cycling shoes now. Merry Christmas everyone x I have Strava too, my watch syncs to it but apparently this bit of kit gives you extra stats lol " Oh I see. You can pay on strava to get lots of extras not that I use them. As Im only interested in miles, average speed and time. | |||
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"Think in gonna have to start shaving my foofy if I'm going to cycle 100 miles! " Go for 80 - 90 rpm if you get it working #spintowin ! | |||
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"Think in gonna have to start shaving my foofy if I'm going to cycle 100 miles! Go for 80 - 90 rpm if you get it working #spintowin ! " I don't think my foofy spins! Finally for my SPD's and pedals today so took my niece and nephew down the park to practice.... Set them really loose so haven't fallen off yet lol | |||
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"Really need to get riding again. Now do I demolish all the chocolates I got for Christmas first? " Yes, then after your ride you can bask in smugness without feeling you’ve ruined it by eating more. | |||
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"Think in gonna have to start shaving my foofy if I'm going to cycle 100 miles! Go for 80 - 90 rpm if you get it working #spintowin ! I don't think my foofy spins! Finally for my SPD's and pedals today so took my niece and nephew down the park to practice.... Set them really loose so haven't fallen off yet lol" Well done! You never know i might fit mine back on again one day.......... nah! | |||
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"Any MTB’rs? I’m off to Llandegla to get muddy on Thursday. " Yep right here | |||
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"Any MTB’rs? I’m off to Llandegla to get muddy on Thursday. Yep right here " It's muddy as heck on the roads for us roadies at the moment it's like speedway on the junctions turning in ! | |||
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"Any MTB’rs? I’m off to Llandegla to get muddy on Thursday. Yep right here It's muddy as heck on the roads for us roadies at the moment it's like speedway on the junctions turning in !" It's God's way of telling you to buy a proper bike | |||
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"My main advice is get a bike fit, this should be free on a new bike or about £100 on an existing. I went in wanting a certain make of road bike and after a fit it was totally unsuitable for my body shape. For all the miles you'll do it's so worth getting fitted properly " Totally agree! | |||
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"My main advice is get a bike fit, this should be free on a new bike or about £100 on an existing. I went in wanting a certain make of road bike and after a fit it was totally unsuitable for my body shape. For all the miles you'll do it's so worth getting fitted properly Totally agree!" Even if you get the right size for your height, it’s worth getting it set up. My local bike shop use a wattbike to adjust your saddle and bar position to get the most comfort and power. I haven’t had a chance to get it done yet but 3 of my mates have and it’s improved their road riding massively. | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work " Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... | |||
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"Any MTB’rs? I’m off to Llandegla to get muddy on Thursday. Yep right here It's muddy as heck on the roads for us roadies at the moment it's like speedway on the junctions turning in ! It's God's way of telling you to buy a proper bike" That'd be a good old fashioned steel framed winter bike that's too heavy t slide.... | |||
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"My main advice is get a bike fit, this should be free on a new bike or about £100 on an existing. I went in wanting a certain make of road bike and after a fit it was totally unsuitable for my body shape. For all the miles you'll do it's so worth getting fitted properly Totally agree! Even if you get the right size for your height, it’s worth getting it set up. My local bike shop use a wattbike to adjust your saddle and bar position to get the most comfort and power. I haven’t had a chance to get it done yet but 3 of my mates have and it’s improved their road riding massively. " I had that done for me by a frame builder watch me ride into work, the bloke grabbed my bike frame adjusted the seat and handlebars. It felt some much better on the way home. | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely..." I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol " Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters.... | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters...." Power meters are the way forward much better than hr if you are “training” , I have one. | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters...." This is where mountain biking beats road riding. You get fit AND you have fun without having to worry about rpm and power. Just ride and grin. Plus it's "ok" to have upper body strength, in fact its better if you have! Imagine..... Plus you don't get killed by lorries. | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters...." Really wasn't joking so thank you for that. Just need to work out how I see my cadence info on my Tomtom now. | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters.... Really wasn't joking so thank you for that. Just need to work out how I see my cadence info on my Tomtom now. " Did it all come in the same box? | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters.... Really wasn't joking so thank you for that. Just need to work out how I see my cadence info on my Tomtom now. Did it all come in the same box? " No. Have had the watch a couple of years and this is an additional sensor that you can buy. I'm sure it's on there somewhere but I was too busy panicking about not falling off as I was using my cleats for the first time to be able to play with my watch haha I'll figure it out x | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters.... This is where mountain biking beats road riding. You get fit AND you have fun without having to worry about rpm and power. Just ride and grin. Plus it's "ok" to have upper body strength, in fact its better if you have! Imagine..... Plus you don't get killed by lorries. " I think the roadies don't have upper body strength thing is a fallacy. The core strength needed to hold a good shape on the bike for three hours or more is pretty serious stuff - even more so if you use a TT bike or aero bars. Not all my bikes have cadence sensors, and if I'm just out for a cafe and cake with mates I'll do the whole run on feel - there are good guides as to how hard you're working from how much of a conversation you can hold. Lorries and cyclists isn't something to joke about - a good friend lost a daughter to a driver who should have been banned the first time. Most of my rides are on country lanes in god's own country north of the wall where rogue sheep are more of a hazard... | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters.... Really wasn't joking so thank you for that. Just need to work out how I see my cadence info on my Tomtom now. Did it all come in the same box? No. Have had the watch a couple of years and this is an additional sensor that you can buy. I'm sure it's on there somewhere but I was too busy panicking about not falling off as I was using my cleats for the first time to be able to play with my watch haha I'll figure it out x " Evie we’re not terribly far apart so if ever you fancy going out while you get used to going clipless, let me know. It’s not always easy to find other female cyclists! | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters.... Really wasn't joking so thank you for that. Just need to work out how I see my cadence info on my Tomtom now. Did it all come in the same box? No. Have had the watch a couple of years and this is an additional sensor that you can buy. I'm sure it's on there somewhere but I was too busy panicking about not falling off as I was using my cleats for the first time to be able to play with my watch haha I'll figure it out x Evie we’re not terribly far apart so if ever you fancy going out while you get used to going clipless, let me know. It’s not always easy to find other female cyclists! " Ah that's lovely. Thank you x | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance " Definitely disc brakes. Ideally hydraulic. Both my road and MTB are hydraulic discs now. | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance " There isn't much to maintain. I've had hydraulic brakes since 2006, and id describe my maintenance of them as "fuck all". | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance " Follow what all the serious crossers do - use discs to keep the braking surface away from the clarty stuff. | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance Follow what all the serious crossers do - use discs to keep the braking surface away from the clarty stuff. " Follow the crosses?. Mountain bikers have been doing it for years too! As for what's better? Hands down discs rule. It's as difficult a question as "cake or death?" Just make sure you go hydraulic and not cable. Should be pretty much maintenance free for the majority of their life,although there are a few golden rules, like NEVER getting any kind of lube anywhere near them at all, in any way! Even the super cheap Shimano or Avid systems will blow your mind. Don't forget you may need new shifters if your current set are integrated with your levers. *Him* | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance Follow what all the serious crossers do - use discs to keep the braking surface away from the clarty stuff. Follow the crosses?. Mountain bikers have been doing it for years too! As for what's better? Hands down discs rule. It's as difficult a question as "cake or death?" Just make sure you go hydraulic and not cable. Should be pretty much maintenance free for the majority of their life,although there are a few golden rules, like NEVER getting any kind of lube anywhere near them at all, in any way! Even the super cheap Shimano or Avid systems will blow your mind. Don't forget you may need new shifters if your current set are integrated with your levers. *Him*" First time I’ve heard “avoid lube” on the forums. | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance Follow what all the serious crossers do - use discs to keep the braking surface away from the clarty stuff. Follow the crosses?. Mountain bikers have been doing it for years too! As for what's better? Hands down discs rule. It's as difficult a question as "cake or death?" Just make sure you go hydraulic and not cable. Should be pretty much maintenance free for the majority of their life,although there are a few golden rules, like NEVER getting any kind of lube anywhere near them at all, in any way! Even the super cheap Shimano or Avid systems will blow your mind. Don't forget you may need new shifters if your current set are integrated with your levers. *Him*" Mmmhmmm. I think the jury is out on discs for testing - they're not particularly aero, and probably heavier than equivalent rim brakes. I think the braking advantages are over-rated unless you're a demon descender coming down from the Alps or the Pyrennees. Rim brakes are good for one big descent before needing to cool down - mine have stopped me from 45mph+ on a steep descent in the ranges by Otterburn when a tractor and the fuckwit sales rep overtaking it decided to take up all the road - I think my arse muscles would have failed before my brakes.... | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance Follow what all the serious crossers do - use discs to keep the braking surface away from the clarty stuff. Follow the crosses?. Mountain bikers have been doing it for years too! As for what's better? Hands down discs rule. It's as difficult a question as "cake or death?" Just make sure you go hydraulic and not cable. Should be pretty much maintenance free for the majority of their life,although there are a few golden rules, like NEVER getting any kind of lube anywhere near them at all, in any way! Even the super cheap Shimano or Avid systems will blow your mind. Don't forget you may need new shifters if your current set are integrated with your levers. *Him*Mmmhmmm. I think the jury is out on discs for testing - they're not particularly aero, and probably heavier than equivalent rim brakes. I think the braking advantages are over-rated unless you're a demon descender coming down from the Alps or the Pyrennees. Rim brakes are good for one big descent before needing to cool down - mine have stopped me from 45mph+ on a steep descent in the ranges by Otterburn when a tractor and the fuckwit sales rep overtaking it decided to take up all the road - I think my arse muscles would have failed before my brakes...." Cool story bro.... however he was asking about disc brakes for off road. | |||
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"Disc brake vs rim brake? Any suggestions on what's better in off road biking? I'm very used to rim brakes but haven't had any experience with disc brake maintenance Follow what all the serious crossers do - use discs to keep the braking surface away from the clarty stuff. Follow the crosses?. Mountain bikers have been doing it for years too! As for what's better? Hands down discs rule. It's as difficult a question as "cake or death?" Just make sure you go hydraulic and not cable. Should be pretty much maintenance free for the majority of their life,although there are a few golden rules, like NEVER getting any kind of lube anywhere near them at all, in any way! Even the super cheap Shimano or Avid systems will blow your mind. Don't forget you may need new shifters if your current set are integrated with your levers. *Him*Mmmhmmm. I think the jury is out on discs for testing - they're not particularly aero, and probably heavier than equivalent rim brakes. I think the braking advantages are over-rated unless you're a demon descender coming down from the Alps or the Pyrennees. Rim brakes are good for one big descent before needing to cool down - mine have stopped me from 45mph+ on a steep descent in the ranges by Otterburn when a tractor and the fuckwit sales rep overtaking it decided to take up all the road - I think my arse muscles would have failed before my brakes.... Cool story bro.... however he was asking about disc brakes for off road. " For off road they are essential although I was surprised when I went to watch a national trophy cyclocross recently just how many were still using cantilevers, although I suspect if you own multiple bikes amd wheels it's probably down to cost. On the road, I'd use them on a commuting bike but they arent necessary for racing amd are being pushed by the industry for racing as it loves to make old components obsolete | |||
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"Where do you stand on e-bikes? I think for the old, disabled or completely out of shape they're great. But again the industry seem to want us all on them. Its the first time I'd like to see some new legislation for a long time. " Electric cargo bikes might make sense, but so far I haven't seen an electric bike I'd like to use... Maybe as I get on a bit a standard road frame with a motor in the downtube might suit me, but in terms of getting more people cycling I think they're a good answer to the wrong question. | |||
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"Where do you stand on e-bikes? I think for the old, disabled or completely out of shape they're great. But again the industry seem to want us all on them. Its the first time I'd like to see some new legislation for a long time. Electric cargo bikes might make sense, but so far I haven't seen an electric bike I'd like to use... Maybe as I get on a bit a standard road frame with a motor in the downtube might suit me, but in terms of getting more people cycling I think they're a good answer to the wrong question." If I had the money, I’d buy one for my dad so he could come out with me on the mountain bike more. He’s 68 and struggles a bit now. | |||
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"Not sure if it's been mentioned but a good bike fit is essential if you want to enjoy your riding. Doesn't make sense to spend big bucks on the bike and ignore the biomechanics." Absolutely | |||
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"Where do you stand on e-bikes? I think for the old, disabled or completely out of shape they're great. But again the industry seem to want us all on them. Its the first time I'd like to see some new legislation for a long time. " If you mean the electric bikes with the magic wheels that SKY allegedly use then I;m really not a fan! But joking aside I love them. They open up cycling to many more people and to me that;s a good thing | |||
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"Where do you stand on e-bikes? I think for the old, disabled or completely out of shape they're great. But again the industry seem to want us all on them. Its the first time I'd like to see some new legislation for a long time. If you mean the electric bikes with the magic wheels that SKY allegedly use then I;m really not a fan! But joking aside I love them. They open up cycling to many more people and to me that;s a good thing" As long as you don't mind paying the same as you would for a second hand family car.. | |||
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"That was the strongest wind I’ve ever ridden in, 50 miles of slog " That was horrible today. Wasn't worth the knee damage imo. | |||
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"That was the strongest wind I’ve ever ridden in, 50 miles of slog " Thats why I change over to spinning in the winter. Youre a better woman than I am. | |||
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"I'm struggling with the cycling at the moment. I bought a new bike back in October and I just cannot get to grips with the new saddle. My undercarriage is in tatters! It's the same brand as the bike ice been using for the previous 4+ years (Trek), but the saddle is ruthless. Where I was previously quite happy doing sixty mile weekend trips, I'm now finding just my five mile each way commute painful. I've resolved to buy a new one to keep my arse intact. Any recommendations? " ISM Adamo but saddles are very personal, most shops do test versions! | |||
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"I'm struggling with the cycling at the moment. I bought a new bike back in October and I just cannot get to grips with the new saddle. My undercarriage is in tatters! It's the same brand as the bike ice been using for the previous 4+ years (Trek), but the saddle is ruthless. Where I was previously quite happy doing sixty mile weekend trips, I'm now finding just my five mile each way commute painful. I've resolved to buy a new one to keep my arse intact. Any recommendations? " Really good lycra shorts/bid | |||
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"I'm struggling with the cycling at the moment. I bought a new bike back in October and I just cannot get to grips with the new saddle. My undercarriage is in tatters! It's the same brand as the bike ice been using for the previous 4+ years (Trek), but the saddle is ruthless. Where I was previously quite happy doing sixty mile weekend trips, I'm now finding just my five mile each way commute painful. I've resolved to buy a new one to keep my arse intact. Any recommendations? Really good lycra shorts/bid " Plus chamois cream. | |||
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"I'm struggling with the cycling at the moment. I bought a new bike back in October and I just cannot get to grips with the new saddle. My undercarriage is in tatters! It's the same brand as the bike ice been using for the previous 4+ years (Trek), but the saddle is ruthless. Where I was previously quite happy doing sixty mile weekend trips, I'm now finding just my five mile each way commute painful. I've resolved to buy a new one to keep my arse intact. Any recommendations? Really good lycra shorts/bid Plus chamois cream." Omg yes dont forget the cream. | |||
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"Does anyone have a Tomtom cadence sensor? Set mine up today and went out for an 11 mile ride today but it didn't bloody work Cadence sensors can be a pain.... The tomtom ones I have seen are magnet based - so you have to make sure the magnet on your pedals passes the sensor pretty precisely... I've moved the sensors now so I think it's working but just not sure what it does now lol Not sure if you;re joking so apologies if this sounds a bit pompous. Your body works best within a fairly narrow range of cadences or tempo (the number of times a minute you spin the pedals). A good starting point is 80 rpm. If you can't pedal at that rate, change gears down one (to an easier gear). Do that when you're riding and you'll always be working at that most efficient cadence. 80 rpm is where you might tell a beginner to cadence monitoring to start - I have a cadence range for general road riding / testing of 80-95 rpm, but on the odd occasion I sprint I might go up to as far as 140 rpm... If you're on a long hill you might settle to a cadence of 65-70 rpm - if I'm doing a hill session on the turbo I'll tweak the gears and resistance until I settle around there.... Heart rate monitoring is the next step - and don't even get me started on the madness that is power meters.... This is where mountain biking beats road riding. You get fit AND you have fun without having to worry about rpm and power. Just ride and grin. Plus it's "ok" to have upper body strength, in fact its better if you have! Imagine..... Plus you don't get killed by lorries. " I only used a HR monitor for recovery, apart from that it was get out and enjoy. See if you can get up billinge lump using a 53/14 instead of a 15 that you used yesterday, but you had to do it sitting down. Then heading towards Appleby bridge, see if you could beat the 52mph that you did last time. The only thing I did after that was to try and beat the time it took me to do the ride last time. Who needs power meters when you can actually enjoy the ride. | |||
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"I'm struggling with the cycling at the moment. I bought a new bike back in October and I just cannot get to grips with the new saddle. My undercarriage is in tatters! It's the same brand as the bike ice been using for the previous 4+ years (Trek), but the saddle is ruthless. Where I was previously quite happy doing sixty mile weekend trips, I'm now finding just my five mile each way commute painful. I've resolved to buy a new one to keep my arse intact. Any recommendations? Really good lycra shorts/bid Plus chamois cream. Omg yes dont forget the cream. " Prologo saddles for me on all three of my bike as I find them so comfortable that it doesn't cross my mind at the end of an all day ride. I've never tried or needed chamois cream but I guess the appeal of it could be down to who you get to rub it in for you..?? | |||
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" So I'm working away with work soon, so getting on my bike midweek will be problematic. Got a couple of 100 milers coming up and now I'm worried about getting in enough miles. Is turbo enough mid week? " Lots of competetive cyclists have to rely on turbo training so the answer is yes..but look up some good routines and dont just sit pedalling on it...and get out when you can at weekends.. | |||
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" So I'm working away with work soon, so getting on my bike midweek will be problematic. Got a couple of 100 milers coming up and now I'm worried about getting in enough miles. Is turbo enough mid week? Lots of competetive cyclists have to rely on turbo training so the answer is yes..but look up some good routines and dont just sit pedalling on it...and get out when you can at weekends.. " I’ve been doing lots of 1 hour set sessions on the turbo but when I did 50 miles last weekend I was rubbish after about 90 mins, I was extremely windy though. | |||
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" So I'm working away with work soon, so getting on my bike midweek will be problematic. Got a couple of 100 milers coming up and now I'm worried about getting in enough miles. Is turbo enough mid week? Lots of competetive cyclists have to rely on turbo training so the answer is yes..but look up some good routines and dont just sit pedalling on it...and get out when you can at weekends.. I’ve been doing lots of 1 hour set sessions on the turbo but when I did 50 miles last weekend I was rubbish after about 90 mins, I was extremely windy though. " #carbthefuckup! | |||
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" So I'm working away with work soon, so getting on my bike midweek will be problematic. Got a couple of 100 milers coming up and now I'm worried about getting in enough miles. Is turbo enough mid week? Lots of competetive cyclists have to rely on turbo training so the answer is yes..but look up some good routines and dont just sit pedalling on it...and get out when you can at weekends.. I’ve been doing lots of 1 hour set sessions on the turbo but when I did 50 miles last weekend I was rubbish after about 90 mins, I was extremely windy though. " ..turbos very helpful this time of year...but you still need to eat right and get out in the elements.Wind is like that kid in school that made your life hell...you just wanna kick its ass.. | |||
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"Try Zwift, you needs hours in the saddle if you are doing 100 mike rides, anyone who says different is wrong" Been using it for a couple of years, definitely helps with the boredom. | |||
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"Try Zwift, you needs hours in the saddle if you are doing 100 mike rides, anyone who says different is wrong Been using it for a couple of years, definitely helps with the boredom. " Man up and buy an mtb! It's not boring off road, and no-one says "sorry i didn't you mate " when you're on their bonnet! | |||
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"Try Zwift, you needs hours in the saddle if you are doing 100 mike rides, anyone who says different is wrong Been using it for a couple of years, definitely helps with the boredom. Man up and buy an mtb! It's not boring off road, and no-one says "sorry i didn't you mate " when you're on their bonnet! " Ha ha, I have what was a half decent xc bike when I bought it 10 years ago, hardly use it these days. | |||
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" So I'm working away with work soon, so getting on my bike midweek will be problematic. Got a couple of 100 milers coming up and now I'm worried about getting in enough miles. Is turbo enough mid week? Lots of competetive cyclists have to rely on turbo training so the answer is yes..but look up some good routines and dont just sit pedalling on it...and get out when you can at weekends.. I’ve been doing lots of 1 hour set sessions on the turbo but when I did 50 miles last weekend I was rubbish after about 90 mins, I was extremely windy though. " It I could possibly be food. But the demand on the road is far more dynamic. Was the 50 miles with other people? | |||
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" So I'm working away with work soon, so getting on my bike midweek will be problematic. Got a couple of 100 milers coming up and now I'm worried about getting in enough miles. Is turbo enough mid week? Lots of competetive cyclists have to rely on turbo training so the answer is yes..but look up some good routines and dont just sit pedalling on it...and get out when you can at weekends.. I’ve been doing lots of 1 hour set sessions on the turbo but when I did 50 miles last weekend I was rubbish after about 90 mins, I was extremely windy though. It I could possibly be food. But the demand on the road is far more dynamic. Was the 50 miles with other people?" I’ve no doubt it was food, it was supposed to be a 2 hour fasted ride. Cafe stop was a welcome sight. It Was a group ride. | |||
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"Try Zwift, you needs hours in the saddle if you are doing 100 mike rides, anyone who says different is wrong Been using it for a couple of years, definitely helps with the boredom. Man up and buy an mtb! It's not boring off road, and no-one says "sorry i didn't you mate " when you're on their bonnet! Ha ha, I have what was a half decent xc bike when I bought it 10 years ago, hardly use it these days. " Ah come on, you're never too old to ride mtb! But you can be too old for lycra.... | |||
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" So I'm working away with work soon, so getting on my bike midweek will be problematic. Got a couple of 100 milers coming up and now I'm worried about getting in enough miles. Is turbo enough mid week? Lots of competetive cyclists have to rely on turbo training so the answer is yes..but look up some good routines and dont just sit pedalling on it...and get out when you can at weekends.. I’ve been doing lots of 1 hour set sessions on the turbo but when I did 50 miles last weekend I was rubbish after about 90 mins, I was extremely windy though. It I could possibly be food. But the demand on the road is far more dynamic. Was the 50 miles with other people? I’ve no doubt it was food, it was supposed to be a 2 hour fasted ride. Cafe stop was a welcome sight. It Was a group ride. " Why would you want to fast? If you are not racing it’s not worth suffering over. Besides the more you ride the more food efficient you will become. At this time of year use a good carb drink and a thermal bottle so it’s pleasant to swig. Carry one bottle and the right amount of powder to make a 2nd at the cafe when you change your vest. As for midweek get on zwift you can do some great rides on there and motivation is not an issue. It makes training hard quite easy not like the normal pulling teeth turbo training is like. | |||
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"Got my provisional acceptance form and magazine for RideLondon today.... Guess I'd best get out more now! " Oh cool! Well done ! | |||
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"Got my provisional acceptance form and magazine for RideLondon today.... Guess I'd best get out more now! " 80000 entrants apparently !! | |||
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"Off out round south Liverpool today on my Giant TCR" careful it’s a bit icy | |||
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"Going to buy a Cyclo Cross bike to speed up my Trans Pennine Trail riding. Anyone got any advice? " Depends on budget but several of my customers use CAADX Cannondale....one even used his in Sweden last November... Ally frame, cable discs and 105... | |||
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"Going to buy a Cyclo Cross bike to speed up my Trans Pennine Trail riding. Anyone got any advice? " Get a car! | |||
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"Going to buy a Cyclo Cross bike to speed up my Trans Pennine Trail riding. Anyone got any advice? " Got a giant tcx good off n on road,got 35mm continental speed cross tyres on goes well on gravel tracks n road | |||
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"All cyclists should be banned from our roads until they pass a test, have insurance and pay road tax. You have to if you drive a car, lorry or s bus, even motorcycle users have to so why not cyclists ??" No such thing as road tax mate. | |||
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"Insurance ? Road test ?" What sort of age would you like to start testing and insuring these pedestrians from? While the stabilizers are still on,or off? | |||
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"As soon as their wheels go on a public road" Right..... best you contact your local MP and demand action! Id like to hear the child getting their insurance quote! " So you're age 5, how many years riding have you had? Still on a tricycle, ok. And any modifications to the vehicle? Tassles, spokey dokeys and a hooter. Will you be fitting a card into the wheel to produce a motorcycle sound?" | |||
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"All cyclists should be banned from our roads until they pass a test, have insurance and pay road tax. You have to if you drive a car, lorry or s bus, even motorcycle users have to so why not cyclists ??" I'll join you on that (except the road tax error), as soon as something approaching a majority of vehicle drivers drive safely with regard for the lives of pedestrians, cyclists and other drivers. | |||
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"All cyclists should be banned from our roads until they pass a test, have insurance and pay road tax. You have to if you drive a car, lorry or s bus, even motorcycle users have to so why not cyclists ??" Ok a cyclist can cause an accident yes of course . But a car or a van or a lorry can kill instantly . I don't think I've ever heard of a multi vehicle pile up caused by a cyclist ever on the news . Plus it's better for the environment and keeps me fitter and more well off than paying for all the crap that motorists shell out for . On the other hand I agree that motorists do have to shell out way too much to drive . | |||
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"All cyclists should be banned from our roads until they pass a test, have insurance and pay road tax. You have to if you drive a car, lorry or s bus, even motorcycle users have to so why not cyclists ??" I find it sad that a thread discussing people's own cycling exploits is now going to turn in to an anti-cyclist argument. Of course your point is a valid one worthy of discussion but maybe a new thread rather than this one (that most forumites probably ignore anyway( would be a better place for the discussion | |||
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"All cyclists should be banned from our roads until they pass a test, have insurance and pay road tax. You have to if you drive a car, lorry or s bus, even motorcycle users have to so why not cyclists ?? No such thing as road tax mate. " And bikes would be exempt anyway | |||
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"Going to buy a Cyclo Cross bike to speed up my Trans Pennine Trail riding. Anyone got any advice? " You'll struggle to beat planet x for value. But plenty of 2017 models reduced at the moment | |||
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"Insurance should be mandatory for all road users. " So how much do you think cyclists should pay for insurance then . Surely not the same amount as a motorist?? | |||
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"That all depends on risk and previous accident stats as all other insurance does" Ok that's sensible. I'm not all against your argument I just feel it demeans the whole point of cycling which is to keep active and not add to pollution !! | |||
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"I’m all for that, trust me but I strongly feel that if a cyclist caused damage to another vehicle or cause a serious road accident what recourse has the victim got against the cyclist if needed." At the moment probably none so I understand your point i honestly do . Maybe some other law needs to be enacted to protect drivers in that situation . | |||
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"Soooooo.... Done no training for RideLondon yet! I was bought a turbo for indoor training but need to replace the rear axle thing as it won't sit in the turbo right. Is this easy or do I need to take it to a shop? I've bought the part but am scared cos its on the rear wheel with all the gears and shit. Lol " Ignore the trolls boring on... No one has answered my question lol | |||
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"Soooooo.... Done no training for RideLondon yet! I was bought a turbo for indoor training but need to replace the rear axle thing as it won't sit in the turbo right. Is this easy or do I need to take it to a shop? I've bought the part but am scared cos its on the rear wheel with all the gears and shit. Lol Ignore the trolls boring on... No one has answered my question lol " Didn't it come with a new axle thing? | |||
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"Soooooo.... Done no training for RideLondon yet! I was bought a turbo for indoor training but need to replace the rear axle thing as it won't sit in the turbo right. Is this easy or do I need to take it to a shop? I've bought the part but am scared cos its on the rear wheel with all the gears and shit. Lol Ignore the trolls boring on... No one has answered my question lol " Turbo's usually come with a matching QR Skewer... you also might want to go for a turbo tyre if you are going to use the kit for a decent amount of time... | |||
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"Soooooo.... Done no training for RideLondon yet! I was bought a turbo for indoor training but need to replace the rear axle thing as it won't sit in the turbo right. Is this easy or do I need to take it to a shop? I've bought the part but am scared cos its on the rear wheel with all the gears and shit. Lol Ignore the trolls boring on... No one has answered my question lol Didn't it come with a new axle thing? " No.... I bought one off amazon though | |||
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"Soooooo.... Done no training for RideLondon yet! I was bought a turbo for indoor training but need to replace the rear axle thing as it won't sit in the turbo right. Is this easy or do I need to take it to a shop? I've bought the part but am scared cos its on the rear wheel with all the gears and shit. Lol Ignore the trolls boring on... No one has answered my question lol Didn't it come with a new axle thing? No.... I bought one off amazon though " It's OK.... I YouTubed it! All set up now but my watch is on charge | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. " There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it. | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it." Schools should be banned form requiring bikability or other things before kids can bike to school. It's faintly ridiculous, and just puts kids off.... | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it.Schools should be banned form requiring bikability or other things before kids can bike to school. It's faintly ridiculous, and just puts kids off...." So you’re saying that kids should cycle to school before they are taught how to do it safely. Bearing in mind the age of kids doing Bikeablility is 9 and 10. Would you let a 17 year old out on the road in a car to drive to meet the driving instructor for the first time with no experience and having had no lessons? | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it." The school near us have a test in a mock up of a road in the school playground. | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it.Schools should be banned form requiring bikability or other things before kids can bike to school. It's faintly ridiculous, and just puts kids off.... So you’re saying that kids should cycle to school before they are taught how to do it safely. Bearing in mind the age of kids doing Bikeablility is 9 and 10. Would you let a 17 year old out on the road in a car to drive to meet the driving instructor for the first time with no experience and having had no lessons?" Wow. How far from the point is that? You can't even compare a kid riding to school on a bike, to a numptie driving a car without prior training. | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it. The school near us have a test in a mock up of a road in the school playground." That is Level 1, the playground part is where the children are taught how to get on and off the bike, starting and stopping, looking behind and signalling. If they can’t do any of that they don’t progress to Level 2 on the road | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it.Schools should be banned form requiring bikability or other things before kids can bike to school. It's faintly ridiculous, and just puts kids off.... So you’re saying that kids should cycle to school before they are taught how to do it safely. Bearing in mind the age of kids doing Bikeablility is 9 and 10. Would you let a 17 year old out on the road in a car to drive to meet the driving instructor for the first time with no experience and having had no lessons? Wow. How far from the point is that? You can't even compare a kid riding to school on a bike, to a numptie driving a car without prior training. " So you agree that schools should be banned from offering Bikeability? What if some of the children don’t have bikes? We take bikes to the schools so everyone can take part and learn a really important life skill that could actually save their life | |||
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"Most schools do a mandatory bikabilty test for the kids, this allows the kids to ride to school. As for insurance, this is covered by a house insurance policy. There’s no test in Bikeability, it’s just a course in years 5 or 6 to teach the children road safety and to show them how to ride a bike safely on the road. We teach them how to stop/start, emergency stops, positioning, how to negotiate left and right turns at junctions, how to pass parked cars and of course the life saver look. There’s no pass or fail although some children are advised to only ride with a adult. We prefer to have them in year 5 so they can get to do it again in year 6 if they weren’t so good or missed the course when their class did it. The school near us have a test in a mock up of a road in the school playground. That is Level 1, the playground part is where the children are taught how to get on and off the bike, starting and stopping, looking behind and signalling. If they can’t do any of that they don’t progress to Level 2 on the road " Don’t think for a second that that sort of attitude helps cycling. If my kid wants to cycle to school you will be sure they will be better on a bike than you are. | |||
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"I'm struggling with the cycling at the moment. I bought a new bike back in October and I just cannot get to grips with the new saddle. My undercarriage is in tatters! It's the same brand as the bike ice been using for the previous 4+ years (Trek), but the saddle is ruthless. Where I was previously quite happy doing sixty mile weekend trips, I'm now finding just my five mile each way commute painful. I've resolved to buy a new one to keep my arse intact. Any recommendations? Really good lycra shorts/bid Plus chamois cream. Omg yes dont forget the cream. Prologo saddles for me on all three of my bike as I find them so comfortable that it doesn't cross my mind at the end of an all day ride. I've never tried or needed chamois cream but I guess the appeal of it could be down to who you get to rub it in for you..?? " I used to use condor carbon saddles, expense but we'll worth the price. My dad swore by Brooks saddles, sadly I just swore at them. | |||
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