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S..xx | |||
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"Perfect excuse for a plumber..
S..xx" | |||
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"Perfect excuse for a plumber..
S..xx"Would I need six so that there's one at each radiator? | |||
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"I decided today is the day for putting the heating on. I've been round and bled all the radiators but there are still cold spots and after an hour there is still air. Any suggestions? " Don't ask me I have had my own disasters! One tip I picked up, is play about with the temperature valves, as they may have expanded and need knocked back into place | |||
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"Perfect excuse for a plumber..
S..xx
Would I need six so that there's one at each radiator?
"Hells yeah .. I could always pop in at that moments to help make the coffee 
S..xx | |||
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"bleed them again... and again. There's possibly air trapped in the pipes which will have to work its way out." That's what I was doing for over an hour.  It's not the most interesting job. | |||
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"Perfect excuse for a plumber..
S..xx
Would I need six so that there's one at each radiator?
Hells yeah .. I could always pop in at that moments to help make the coffee
S..xx"You'd be on towel duty if you popped in. | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm "Oh? I haven't done anything with plastic caps. I've been doing the key thing and trying to get the little nozzle lined up with my dish (and failing). | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm "Try to start at the first radiator from the boiler working to the next, (downstairs first then upstairs) hopefully that way you are expelling all the air not just moving from one to the next. | |||
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"Turn the big one anticlockwise all the way. Then take the little plastic cap off the other one and turn it anticlockwise all the way too. They control the flow of water into the radiator, you need those to be fully open to bleed the air out." I just had a go, between Strictly dances, and I can't get them to turn or list off. I think I'm going to have to get help. | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Try to start at the first radiator from the boiler working to the next, (downstairs first then upstairs) hopefully that way you are expelling all the air not just moving from one to the next. "That's how I did the bleeding. The one furthest from the boiler is the one that is performing best. The one closest and the next two are the ones with cold spots. | |||
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"I decided today is the day for putting the heating on. I've been round and bled all the radiators but there are still cold spots and after an hour there is still air. Any suggestions? Have u had your boiler serviced recently .... "  | |||
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"I decided today is the day for putting the heating on. I've been round and bled all the radiators but there are still cold spots and after an hour there is still air. Any suggestions? Have u had your boiler serviced recently .... "No. | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm "Nooooo, never mess with the one without the twiddly cap. That's the one for balancing the whole system. OP: are the cold spots at the top or bottom of the rad? After you have been bleeding them, is there still air coming out, or water? Mr ddc | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Nooooo, never mess with the one without the twiddly cap. That's the one for balancing the whole system.
OP: are the cold spots at the top or bottom of the rad?
After you have been bleeding them, is there still air coming out, or water?
Mr ddc"The cold spots are at the top. There is air. I have had water - bubbly/spitty, dirty and clear - and then it returns to air. | |||
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"Get your boiler serviced.... by a qualified gas safe guy ....you may have a blockage ....or may need the system draining ... my gas safe man charges 60 pounds ... but then at least you will know whats wrong .... you could be doing more damage .... especially if its a combination boiler .... my advice leave it to the experts ... "I'll get my site manager on to it. | |||
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"You shouldn't have that much air in your system?. If you have an open system I suggest you look to see if it's sucking air in via the F&E. . Cold spots on radiators can be air but it should always be even and at the top, if you've got cold spots all over the radiators it could be black sludge, a sign that you've been airating the water via the F&E" I did wonder about sludge. | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely" Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. | |||
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"Check to see if the ballvalve hasn't jammed in it, it's the usual suspect" You are speaking in foreign now. | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. ". There's a small tank either in the attic or the cylinder cupboard, it's the feed and expansion tank for your system | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. "Trust me if I managed then you will, though I will admit mine was a fluke, play around with the valves at the bottom, as they can dislodge, due to expansion and just need to be knocked back in, it worked for me | |||
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" OP: are the cold spots at the top or bottom of the rad? After you have been bleeding them, is there still air coming out, or water? Mr ddc The cold spots are at the top. There is air. I have had water - bubbly/spitty, dirty and clear - and then it returns to air. " Well, that's good news, to a certain extent. With the heating on, start with the downstairs rads, working your way upstairs. You should feel them getting hot as they fill with water. It may take some time. The next issue is whether they stay clear of air tomorrow. I have to bleed our neighbours' rads every year, and sometimes the upstairs ones are almost empty | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. .
There's a small tank either in the attic or the cylinder cupboard, it's the feed and expansion tank for your system"OK. That's just more foreign to me. I thought I was doing well knowing what the radiator key was and where to put it. | |||
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" OP: are the cold spots at the top or bottom of the rad? After you have been bleeding them, is there still air coming out, or water? Mr ddc The cold spots are at the top. There is air. I have had water - bubbly/spitty, dirty and clear - and then it returns to air. Well, that's good news, to a certain extent. With the heating on, start with the downstairs rads, working your way upstairs. You should feel them getting hot as they fill with water. It may take some time. The next issue is whether they stay clear of air tomorrow. I have to bleed our neighbours' rads every year, and sometimes the upstairs ones are almost empty "They haven't been used since 31st March... I'll have another bleed tomorrow and if that fails it will be a job for the person who knows how to talk to plumbers. | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. .
There's a small tank either in the attic or the cylinder cupboard, it's the feed and expansion tank for your system
OK. That's just more foreign to me. I thought I was doing well knowing what the radiator key was and where to put it. ". If everything's sounding foreign to you it sounds like you need a foreigner. . That's cash only work  | |||
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"I had a plumber in yesterday to do the annual check on the boiler and as he was testing it the central heating pump konked out... and he couldn't get a new pump til Monday .. So I'm overrun with portable heaters ATM but at least it's nice and warm here "I hope you've got hot water. | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. .
There's a small tank either in the attic or the cylinder cupboard, it's the feed and expansion tank for your system
OK. That's just more foreign to me. I thought I was doing well knowing what the radiator key was and where to put it. .
If everything's sounding foreign to you it sounds like you need a foreigner.
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That's cash only work "Not with my cash.  | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Nooooo, never mess with the one without the twiddly cap. That's the one for balancing the whole system.
OP: are the cold spots at the top or bottom of the rad?
After you have been bleeding them, is there still air coming out, or water?
Mr ddc
The cold spots are at the top.
There is air. I have had water - bubbly/spitty, dirty and clear - and then it returns to air.
"Set the individual thermosat to full on each rad(the twiddly twist control) then use your rad key to open the little ¦ valve at the top,holding a towel over the valve as you open it CAREFUL water will be hot if boiler been on a while,keep open till hissing stops,and water comes into towel...good luck | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. .
There's a small tank either in the attic or the cylinder cupboard, it's the feed and expansion tank for your system
OK. That's just more foreign to me. I thought I was doing well knowing what the radiator key was and where to put it. .
If everything's sounding foreign to you it sounds like you need a foreigner.
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That's cash only work
Not with my cash. ". Your on the clock already.... We never give advice for free  | |||
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"I had a plumber in yesterday to do the annual check on the boiler and as he was testing it the central heating pump konked out... and he couldn't get a new pump til Monday .. So I'm overrun with portable heaters ATM but at least it's nice and warm here
I hope you've got hot water.
"Oh yes.. plenty of that thank god | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Nooooo, never mess with the one without the twiddly cap. That's the one for balancing the whole system.
OP: are the cold spots at the top or bottom of the rad?
After you have been bleeding them, is there still air coming out, or water?
Mr ddc
The cold spots are at the top.
There is air. I have had water - bubbly/spitty, dirty and clear - and then it returns to air.
Set the individual thermosat to full on each rad(the twiddly twist control) then use your rad key to open the little ¦ valve at the top,holding a towel over the valve as you open it CAREFUL water will be hot if boiler been on a while,keep open till hissing stops,and water comes into towel...good luck"Thanks. | |||
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"Make shure your boiler has enuf water in look at the gage clock if it showing low top it up with the inlet valve not over fill it through " Thanks but that's more foreign to me. I assume the gauge clock is the thing with a needle but that's about it. | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it?" Yes, I believe so. | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it?" . No, if she'd bleed it for an hour she'd have n been out of pressure ages ago!. | |||
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"Make shure your boiler has enuf water in look at the gage clock if it showing low top it up with the inlet valve not over fill it through Thanks but that's more foreign to me. I assume the gauge clock is the thing with a needle but that's about it. " Yes there will be a plastic key valve to fill it up just turn it for a few seconds wach the clock fill | |||
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"Make shure your boiler has enuf water in look at the gage clock if it showing low top it up with the inlet valve not over fill it through Thanks but that's more foreign to me. I assume the gauge clock is the thing with a needle but that's about it. Yes there will be a plastic key valve to fill it up just turn it for a few seconds wach the clock fill " But only till it reach a qurter on clock | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. " Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. " Thats what i been saying fill the boiler | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Oh? I haven't done anything with plastic caps. I've been doing the key thing and trying to get the little nozzle lined up with my dish (and failing).
"Catch it in a towel. I'm sure you'd be ok with that. | |||
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"Make shure your boiler has enuf water in look at the gage clock if it showing low top it up with the inlet valve not over fill it through Thanks but that's more foreign to me. I assume the gauge clock is the thing with a needle but that's about it. Yes there will be a plastic key valve to fill it up just turn it for a few seconds wach the clock fill " It's on the zero and there's no plastic key valve that I can see. | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. Thats what i been saying fill the boiler " Yes, but exactly how depends on how her system was set up. Especially as technically you're not meant to leave the filling loop connected. You can't just tell her to open valves willy-nilly. | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. " I've just had a look, and there is. One end is in one pipe and the other in another pipe. I'm leaving that alone. It's GALMI time. For now, the one in the living room is hot and I've still got hot water. | |||
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"bleed them again... and again. There's possibly air trapped in the pipes which will have to work its way out. That's what I was doing for over an hour. It's not the most interesting job.". A sealed system would be out of pressure in about 3 minutes of bleeding?. Are you sure it was an hour  | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Oh? I haven't done anything with plastic caps. I've been doing the key thing and trying to get the little nozzle lined up with my dish (and failing).
Catch it in a towel. I'm sure you'd be ok with that."you won't be able to fill your radiators if the boiler nit got inuf water in it | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. I've just had a look, and there is. One end is in one pipe and the other in another pipe. I'm leaving that alone. It's GALMI time. For now, the one in the living room is hot and I've still got hot water. " I feel a bit bad because it's easy to explain assuming everything is normal. But that word "assume" is often how things go pear-shaped... If you ask someone to service the boiler at the same time it shouldn't cost the earth, especially if you don't mind waiting a couple of days, so they're not charging "emergency" rates. | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. Thats what i been saying fill the boiler Yes, but exactly how depends on how her system was set up. Especially as technically you're not meant to leave the filling loop connected. You can't just tell her to open valves willy-nilly." i seid open for a few seconds thats what its there for so we can fill it up | |||
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"It's obviously an open system because you've not mentioned the need to fill it?. Your sucking air in via the F&E most likely Fill it? I wouldn't know what I'd need to fill it with. I don't know what the F&E is, let alone how it sucks in air. It all sounds like I'll have to GALMI. "Sounds to me like you need a big top up. Then let it run for a bit and re-bleed and top up again. Toasty in no time. | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. Thats what i been saying fill the boiler Yes, but exactly how depends on how her system was set up. Especially as technically you're not meant to leave the filling loop connected. You can't just tell her to open valves willy-nilly.i seid open for a few seconds thats what its there for so we can fill it up " Except, in order to comply with the Drinking Water Regs, the last plumber should have disconnected at least one end of the hose. If he has, then opening a valve risks spraying water everywhere. Most of us leave our filling loops connected for this very eventuality, but would you be prepared to say for definite how Lickety's system is set up? | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. Thats what i been saying fill the boiler Yes, but exactly how depends on how her system was set up. Especially as technically you're not meant to leave the filling loop connected. You can't just tell her to open valves willy-nilly.i seid open for a few seconds thats what its there for so we can fill it up Except, in order to comply with the Drinking Water Regs, the last plumber should have disconnected at least one end of the hose. If he has, then opening a valve risks spraying water everywhere. Most of us leave our filling loops connected for this very eventuality, but would you be prepared to say for definite how Lickety's system is set up? " yes all boilers have a top up tap otherwise you would be calling British gas out every month paying 150 pounds | |||
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"bleed them again... and again. There's possibly air trapped in the pipes which will have to work its way out. That's what I was doing for over an hour. It's not the most interesting job..
A sealed system would be out of pressure in about 3 minutes of bleeding?.
Are you sure it was an hour "Yep. | |||
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"If it's on zero and it's pressurised your boiler shouldn't even be working "It's working. The pilot light is on and the living room radiator is hot. | |||
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"If it's on zero and it's pressurised your boiler shouldn't even be working
It's working. The pilot light is on and the living room radiator is hot.
"Good News. But do get the pressure checked very soon. Burn out pumps if there's low pressure | |||
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"Just out of interest, have a look at your boiler. Is there a little length of flexible metal hose with a valve at each end, under it? Yes, I believe so. Oooh, that makes it more technical. You need to let more water in as you bleed them. It's not complicated, but you may feel safer to get a man in. If so, get him to show you how to do it for next time. I've just had a look, and there is. One end is in one pipe and the other in another pipe. I'm leaving that alone. It's GALMI time. For now, the one in the living room is hot and I've still got hot water. I feel a bit bad because it's easy to explain assuming everything is normal. But that word "assume" is often how things go pear-shaped... If you ask someone to service the boiler at the same time it shouldn't cost the earth, especially if you don't mind waiting a couple of days, so they're not charging "emergency" rates. " I'm in York from Monday so my only issue is having a shower. It's not the end of the world if I don't have heating as I've only just put it on. | |||
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" yes all boilers have a top up tap otherwise you would be calling British gas out every month paying 150 pounds" Water Supply Industry Interpretations and Advice Area of Interest : Backflow prevention Topic : Temporary filling loops Title : Disconnection of temporary filling loops Clause Reference : Schedule 2 paragraph 24 & G 24.2 (a) Reference Number : B54 Decision Date : June 2012 When not in use it would be preferable for temporary filling loops to be completely disconnected and totally removed, however a partial disconnection, that is to say only detaching one end of the filling loop, will be permitted providing that the disconnection is made between the filing loop and the backflow prevention device on the supply pipe. | |||
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"Let's start from scratch. What make is the boiler how old is it" It's a Sime, Friendly Format 80 E Combination boiler. It must be coming up for 8-10 years. | |||
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"If it's on zero and it's pressurised your boiler shouldn't even be working
It's working. The pilot light is on and the living room radiator is hot.
Good News. But do get the pressure checked very soon. Burn out pumps if there's low pressure "Thanks. I'll get my 'assistant' on to it on Monday. | |||
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" yes all boilers have a top up tap otherwise you would be calling British gas out every month paying 150 pounds Water Supply Industry Interpretations and Advice Area of Interest : Backflow prevention Topic : Temporary filling loops Title : Disconnection of temporary filling loops Clause Reference : Schedule 2 paragraph 24 & G 24.2 (a) Reference Number : B54 Decision Date : June 2012 When not in use it would be preferable for temporary filling loops to be completely disconnected and totally removed, however a partial disconnection, that is to say only detaching one end of the filling loop, will be permitted providing that the disconnection is made between the filing loop and the backflow prevention device on the supply pipe. " 
More foreign.
Sorry, I didn't mean to start a forum 'debate'.
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"If it's on zero and it's pressurised your boiler shouldn't even be working
It's working. The pilot light is on and the living room radiator is hot.
". Pilot lights are very old!. I doesn't sound like you have a pressurised system to me or a modern boiler!. Whats the make and model, it's usually on the front of the boiler | |||
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"If it's on zero and it's pressurised your boiler shouldn't even be working
It's working. The pilot light is on and the living room radiator is hot.
.
Pilot lights are very old!.
I doesn't sound like you have a pressurised system to me or a modern boiler!.
Whats the make and model, it's usually on the front of the boiler"When I said pilot light, I meant the flame in the little window when it kicks in. It goes off and on. | |||
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" yes all boilers have a top up tap otherwise you would be calling British gas out every month paying 150 pounds Water Supply Industry Interpretations and Advice Area of Interest : Backflow prevention Topic : Temporary filling loops Title : Disconnection of temporary filling loops Clause Reference : Schedule 2 paragraph 24 & G 24.2 (a) Reference Number : B54 Decision Date : June 2012 When not in use it would be preferable for temporary filling loops to be completely disconnected and totally removed, however a partial disconnection, that is to say only detaching one end of the filling loop, will be permitted providing that the disconnection is made between the filing loop and the backflow prevention device on the supply pipe. " looks like you copy that from Google but you dont need a manual to fill a boiler  | |||
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"looks like you copy that from Google but you dont need a manual to fill a boiler "True, on both counts. But would you trust advice from someone who didn't even know that the regulation existed? | |||
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"Let's start from scratch. What make is the boiler how old is it It's a Sime, Friendly Format 80 E Combination boiler. It must be coming up for 8-10 years. " . Oh good god, there fucking awful things. The e is usually the one with electronic ignition though not pilot light?. Yes they are meant for sealed systems, so yours will definitely have a filling loop, although how you've managed run it with no pressure or bleed it for an hour is beyond me lol. Usually your out of pressure in about 3 minutes on a sealed system. Is your boiler downstairs perhaps? Either way you shouldn't really run it without enough water, I'd find the filing loop and fill it if I were you | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Nooooo, never mess with the one without the twiddly cap. That's the one for balancing the whole system.
OP: are the cold spots at the top or bottom of the rad?
After you have been bleeding them, is there still air coming out, or water?
Mr ddc
The cold spots are at the top.
There is air. I have had water - bubbly/spitty, dirty and clear - and then it returns to air.
Set the individual thermosat to full on each rad(the twiddly twist control) then use your rad key to open the little ¦ valve at the top,holding a towel over the valve as you open it CAREFUL water will be hot if boiler been on a while,keep open till hissing stops,and water comes into towel...good luck"I personally would leave that job to the boiler engineer with hot water Involved especially if you can,t get the valve back in time and it falls out or something similar I,ve learnt my lesson.. even with coldwater I have used a bleed drain that you can buy and was useful but not that easy to use I hated the thought of water going everywhere I don,t touch them now less worry. | |||
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"looks like you copy that from Google but you dont need a manual to fill a boiler
True, on both counts.
But would you trust advice from someone who didn't even know that the regulation existed?
"thos are ghe basic things to check before calling our British gas to pay a fortune simple tasks what all men shuld know exept for you  | |||
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"with your dial being at zero pressure you need to refill the system back up should be between 1 bar and 1 bar and half for external filling its this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQ9tHmFm-xI for on boiler its like this at 1.40 mins under the boiler https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHupvqk27H4 once repressurized to the above quote then run your system any cold radiators after 5 mins you need to shut off 1 valve on the radiator do this to a few of them the pressure will push through the air to the radiator therefore becoming hot if it dosnt then sometimes more radiators need to be closed until it does only leave the bathroom on if thermostatic valves on them only close off that side to balance out a system so all radiators become warm at the same time then you need to close the outlet side or the one with the dome head ( not always though) then you reopen a quarter of a turn do this to all upstairs radiators as heat rises the only one that is left at half a turn is the bathroom one ( circulator radiator isnt always the case ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUWbxccVDpc" Thanks. I'll switch it all off, let it cool and give it a go. | |||
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"YOU'RE ALL FAB! Under 2 minutes to bleed them all this time round and they're all hot. I'm going to run around naked in celebration. I will also mention the issues at the service. " . Whow whow whow.... Run round naked!.....I think I was first with the info!!!! | |||
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"YOU'RE ALL FAB! Under 2 minutes to bleed them all this time round and they're all hot. I'm going to run around naked in celebration. I will also mention the issues at the service. . Whow whow whow.... Run round naked!.....I think I was first with the info!!!! " There you go. | |||
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"now after a few days or a week go around checking your radiators for being coldish at the top if so then bleed that radiator cold fresh water adds air into the system sometimes after that radiator has been bled you might not need to top again but check the dial anyway next time my advice to people give it a pre run before you hit winter or cold spells at least it can give an early warning it might need something " Yes sir. | |||
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"now after a few days or a week go around checking your radiators for being coldish at the top if so then bleed that radiator cold fresh water adds air into the system sometimes after that radiator has been bled you might not need to top again but check the dial anyway next time my advice to people give it a pre run before you hit winter or cold spells at least it can give an early warning it might need something Yes sir. "Glad its sorted darby dales telling you not to fill the boiler would never have sorted it and cost you lote of money of British gas | |||
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"If there's still cold spots then they need bleeding more. Make sure both valves on the bottom of the radiator are fully open, one usually has a plastic cap and the other is the one you twiddle. Fully open the first one, then pull the plastic cap off the other and put the twiddly cap onto it and open that side too. Then use the key and open the bleed valve at the top, give the radiator a few thumps to clear any blockages and encourage the air to come out. Or wrap up warm
Try to start at the first radiator from the boiler working to the next, (downstairs first then upstairs) hopefully that way you are expelling all the air not just moving from one to the next.
That's how I did the bleeding. The one furthest from the boiler is the one that is performing best. The one closest and the next two are the ones with cold spots.
"Sounds like you need the system balancing. If the furthest one is the hottest, back off the valve half way...this will restrict flow to that one and allow the others more flow, repeat as necessary.. also check your boiler pressure..use the fill loop to keep the pressure right. | |||
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"YOU'RE ALL FAB! Under 2 minutes to bleed them all this time round and they're all hot. I'm going to run around naked in celebration. I will also mention the issues at the service. . Whow whow whow.... Run round naked!.....I think I was first with the info!!!! There you go." . I wasn't ready, can we go again | |||
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