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"I heard that vw dealers fit for free if you buy the bulb from them. " And how much more expensive are they the one from Halfords? It's all a con! | |||
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"I used to take great joy watching Halfords 'attempt' to replace the bulb on Renault Megane (twitches wildly at the mere thought of that piece of shit). Had to come through the wheel arch which unless you was an ambidextrous vet used to sticking your arm up long narrow cavaties and working in the dark was a nightmare. The few times I had to do it involved taking the wheel off!!!! On the plus side I think this is why the frogs no longer require you to have spare bulbs on board and can't fine you." Renault scenic and yes the poor guys run a mile when they see me coming. Must admit is through the bonnet but in a right stupid corner! !! | |||
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"You want to see how much Halford charge to change the bulb on my soda superb. More than £120 as it a xenon... It was me sweating not them just for 1 headlight bulb too" they had your pants down there | |||
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"You want to see how much Halford charge to change the bulb on my soda superb. More than £120 as it a xenon... It was me sweating not them just for 1 headlight bulb too they had your pants down there " name told them to keep it once they quoted the price. Got 1 off eBay for £18 | |||
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"I know it can be a pain to change a headlight bulb. One car I had I had to take the battery off to get at them. Just heard on breakfast TV that a Ford Ka you have to take the wheels off and go in through the wheel arch! Is it me or are car manufacturers being deliberately awkward?" I would go with awkward | |||
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"There are lots of car wear you have to go in wheel well to change a bulb most have a flap you open to git to the light there was a Renault that you had to take the bumper of the change the head light bulb think I cost about 200as the bulb was a HD bulb and 2 hrs labor " It was a standard halogen H7 bulb that cost a couple of quid. The cost was down to the Labour of removing and refitting the bumper, liners and wheels, Renault dealers charge £90ph, thieving gits... | |||
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"I know it can be a pain to change a headlight bulb. One car I had I had to take the battery off to get at them. Just heard on breakfast TV that a Ford Ka you have to take the wheels off and go in through the wheel arch! Is it me or are car manufacturers being deliberately awkward?" Renault megane is the same jack it up wheel off , and even then you need to be a bloody contortionist Pay the money to halfords get them to fix it | |||
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"I know it can be a pain to change a headlight bulb. One car I had I had to take the battery off to get at them. Just heard on breakfast TV that a Ford Ka you have to take the wheels off and go in through the wheel arch! Is it me or are car manufacturers being deliberately awkward? Renault megane is the same jack it up wheel off , and even then you need to be a bloody contortionist Pay the money to halfords get them to fix it " I wouldn't pay the monkeys at Halfords to empty my ashtray let alone touch any electrics or mechanicals on my car. The work around for the Renault Megane is to fit the phase 2 wheel arch liners. It's still a wee bit fiddly but considerably easier and cheaper that taking the bumper off. | |||
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"Got a Ford Focus, thats hard enough. The Toyota Corrolla requires 3 arms, one of which has to be child size with at least 2 elbows." | |||
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"Heh heh, oh the joys of modern cars! Halfords 3.99 offer only extends to certain bulbs and certain cars (they're not stupid, they know which makes are bastards to get at). There is one post on here referring to a certain Renault and having to remove quite a bit of the front. It involves a whole lot of "front" dismantling. It's a Renault Modus (google renault modus headlamp change) and you won't be doing that at the side of the road. Imagine on a continental holiday, unknown roads, maybe badly lit, no way you're going to be safe on one headlight. Your Renault dealer (at £££ per hour) will just love you for it." Years back my parents had a Assortment of different cars over the years and when I see the old morris traveller parked up the road I remember the one we had and morris minor they had their hic cups but in all were great cars Especially the traveller... | |||
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"very old cars war designed so most ppl could do simple repairs like changing bulbs,spark plugs etc but all modern cars are built in such a way you have to take them to a garage to get even the simplest repair done as everything is buried beneath the bodywork .modern cars are not designed to last beyond 10 yrs as repairs ofton outweigh the cars value should the car get that old " | |||
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"Try an 05 Iveco Daily. Front wing has to come off to change an indicator bulb! I think nearly every one of the ones in our fleet have a "broken fixing clip" and a strip of duct tape holding the indicator lamp in the wing!" | |||
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"There are no megane's you need to take the bumper or wheel off- they are a fiddly to do but not that bad. It Ian certain age modus & espace you do need to remove the bumper so £150 ish to do. Xenon or hid bulbs very very rarely fail - normally other faults causing them not to work. " Yes there are. The phase one Megane 2's required the bumper off and were standard H7 bulbs, I had one. | |||
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"My old merc was easy peasy. Just bought an MGZT (Rover 75 in skinny jeans and a crop top). I knew the headlamps were a pain as you have to go in through an access panel in the wheel arch liners, but it's really fiddly and you end up getting your forearm scraped. One went last night, just as it got dark and started raining. As a previous owner had dispensed with the undertray, I opted for taking the front off and taking the headlamp out to change the bulb - took longer, but easier. It's crazy I agree. And don't get me started on timing/cam belts - worst thing the automotive industry ever did. If possible, I always get cars with timing chains." Worst thing the automotive industry ever did?! How would you time the crank with the cam/valves then? Cam chains stretch too and require changing otherwise you end up with bent valves and possible piston damage. | |||
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"My old merc was easy peasy. Just bought an MGZT (Rover 75 in skinny jeans and a crop top). I knew the headlamps were a pain as you have to go in through an access panel in the wheel arch liners, but it's really fiddly and you end up getting your forearm scraped. One went last night, just as it got dark and started raining. As a previous owner had dispensed with the undertray, I opted for taking the front off and taking the headlamp out to change the bulb - took longer, but easier. It's crazy I agree. And don't get me started on timing/cam belts - worst thing the automotive industry ever did. If possible, I always get cars with timing chains. Worst thing the automotive industry ever did?! How would you time the crank with the cam/valves then? Cam chains stretch too and require changing otherwise you end up with bent valves and possible piston damage." The way they've always been timed - firstly by direct gearing and more latterly by chains. Yeah, sure, chains stretch a little, but modern alloys reduce that to almost zero, and they have self adjusters. Chains typically last the life of the engine, my old merc had done 240k miles with it's original chain, no rattles, before the ecu died, putting it beyond economical repair. Chains almost never fail catastrophically, they usually give you plenty of notice by the noise they make if they've stretched too much - but continue to work. Belts on the other hand, fail regularly, catastrophically, with no warning, often within the service interval, causing thousands of £ worth of engine damage. Mercedes, Jeep and Nissan have never used belts. BMW went to belts in the 80s, but have now reverted back to chains. Many other major manufacturers are returning/have returned to using chains. I stand by my original comment | |||
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"There are no megane's you need to take the bumper or wheel off- they are a fiddly to do but not that bad. It Ian certain age modus & espace you do need to remove the bumper so £150 ish to do. Xenon or hid bulbs very very rarely fail - normally other faults causing them not to work. Yes there are. The phase one Megane 2's required the bumper off and were standard H7 bulbs, I had one. " The later phase 2s have an access panel in the wheel well but its still a pain in the arse to change them, best bet is utilise halfords fitting service, usually it seems a rip off but they have to earn their money with the megane lol | |||
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"Spark plug maintenance on modern bikes is a pain in the arse. How many tools do you need ffs " Yup, took me nearly 2 hours start to finish for 3 plugs on my street triple | |||
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"Spark plug maintenance on modern bikes is a pain in the arse. How many tools do you need ffs Yup, took me nearly 2 hours start to finish for 3 plugs on my street triple " I had fun doing them on the VFR400 the rear you have to remove the seat, the front ones you have to remove the radiator. | |||
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" Mercedes, Jeep and Nissan have NEVER used belts. BMW went to belts in the 80s, but have now reverted back to chains. Many other major manufacturers are returning/have returned to using chains. I stand by my original comment" Tbf Nissan have used belts in plenty of engines. | |||
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" Mercedes, Jeep and Nissan have NEVER used belts. BMW went to belts in the 80s, but have now reverted back to chains. Many other major manufacturers are returning/have returned to using chains. I stand by my original comment Tbf Nissan have used belts in plenty of engines." OK - happy to be corrected on that detail, but I would contend that my main points re belts vs chains are valid. I've saved thousands of pounds over the years by buying only timing chain engined cars and never had an issue with any of them - many have been high milers. I typically buy BM or Merc. The ZT was a desperation purchase. You can see why Rover went bust - though it does have the BMW engine, which is as sweet as you like (with a timing chain, hence the albeit reluctant purchase) | |||
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"It's not just cars (had a Smart car, needed to be a gynacologist to change the bulbs on that) , motorbikes can be just as bad!" Can anyone tell me why a two seat pram with no boot space and the acceleration of a turd rolling uphill was ever called "smart". And why oh why do some 'smart4fours' have 3 headrests in the back? | |||
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" Mercedes, Jeep and Nissan have NEVER used belts. BMW went to belts in the 80s, but have now reverted back to chains. Many other major manufacturers are returning/have returned to using chains. I stand by my original comment Tbf Nissan have used belts in plenty of engines. OK - happy to be corrected on that detail, but I would contend that my main points re belts vs chains are valid. I've saved thousands of pounds over the years by buying only timing chain engined cars and never had an issue with any of them - many have been high milers. I typically buy BM or Merc. The ZT was a desperation purchase. You can see why Rover went bust - though it does have the BMW engine, which is as sweet as you like (with a timing chain, hence the albeit reluctant purchase) " I've never had an issue with belt driven cars. As long as they're changed before the required mileage/time interval and the followers, Tensioners and water pump are all done at the same time everything will be fine. Most timing related issues come from the auxiliary belt snapping and pieces of it ending up going under the crank pulley, this then makes the belt slip a tooth and buggering the engine, it can happen on chain driven cars too, and does quite frequently, because owners don't think the fan/auxiliary belt is that important. There is no better or worse when it comes to belt vs chain, what it mostly boils down to is the owner either not being aware or simply skimping on routine and/or preventative maintenance. | |||
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" There is no better or worse when it comes to belt vs chain, what it mostly boils down to is the owner either not being aware or simply skimping on routine and/or preventative maintenance." Oh but there is - belts need changing, which costs money, typically chains last the life of the engine. Belts fail catastrophically without warning causing major engine damage, unless you're very lucky. Chains may stretch and become noisy with extremely high mileage, but at least you have plenty of warning. As I said, I've saved thousands of pounds by having timing chain engines. | |||
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" I've never had an issue with belt driven cars. As long as they're changed before the required mileage/time interval and the followers, Tensioners and water pump are all done at the same time everything will be fine. Most timing related issues come from the auxiliary belt snapping and pieces of it ending up going under the crank pulley, this then makes the belt slip a tooth and buggering the engine, it can happen on chain driven cars too, and does quite frequently, because owners don't think the fan/auxiliary belt is that important. " I'm sorry, but this bit doesn't make any sense. On every car I've owned (over 25 so far), the fan/auxiliary/alternator belt(s) have nothing to do with the timing and are outside the engine, typically easy to replace, and no dramas if they break (which has happened a couple of times to me). The timing belt or chain that turns the cam shaft to open and close the valves, is always inside the engine, albeit with belts on the dry side and chains on the wet side for obvious reasons. The issue is not so much the valve timing, but that when a timing belt snaps, which they do often, even when replaced within the service interval (happened 3 times to someone I know), some of the valves are left in the open position and the pistons smash into them, trashing the valves and pistons, which is major engine surgery. Chains almost never snap, and when stretched beyond the capacity of the tensioner, they rattle like crazy (but still work), giving you plenty of notice that they need changing | |||
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" I've never had an issue with belt driven cars. As long as they're changed before the required mileage/time interval and the followers, Tensioners and water pump are all done at the same time everything will be fine. Most timing related issues come from the auxiliary belt snapping and pieces of it ending up going under the crank pulley, this then makes the belt slip a tooth and buggering the engine, it can happen on chain driven cars too, and does quite frequently, because owners don't think the fan/auxiliary belt is that important. I'm sorry, but this bit doesn't make any sense. On every car I've owned (over 25 so far), the fan/auxiliary/alternator belt(s) have nothing to do with the timing and are outside the engine, typically easy to replace, and no dramas if they break (which has happened a couple of times to me). The timing belt or chain that turns the cam shaft to open and close the valves, is always inside the engine, albeit with belts on the dry side and chains on the wet side for obvious reasons. The issue is not so much the valve timing, but that when a timing belt snaps, which they do often, even when replaced within the service interval (happened 3 times to someone I know), some of the valves are left in the open position and the pistons smash into them, trashing the valves and pistons, which is major engine surgery. Chains almost never snap, and when stretched beyond the capacity of the tensioner, they rattle like crazy (but still work), giving you plenty of notice that they need changing" Did I say that the auxiliary/fan belt has anything to do with timing? Read my post again- I said that the auxiliary belt snaps and it, or pieces of it end up getting under the crank pulley, this makes the belt slip a tooth, throwing the timing out. I've never seen a timing belt snap that's been changed with its specified time/mileage, it's often something else that fails. Either a water pump, tensioner, follower or auxiliary belt. The best answer would be for all manufacturers to follow Mazda and build non-interference engines. | |||
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" Did I say that the auxiliary/fan belt has anything to do with timing? Read my post again- I said that the auxiliary belt snaps and it, or pieces of it end up getting under the crank pulley, this makes the belt slip a tooth, throwing the timing out. " So how do pieces of the auxiliary/fan/accessories belt(s), which are outside the engine, get under the timing belt crank pulley, which is inside the engine? I agree, non interference engines are the best option if it has a timing belt, but despite their inherent mechanical disadvantages, timing chains are a better option, for all the reasons I've stated. Just because you've never seen a snapped timing belt, doesn't diminish the pain and expense caused to thousands of motorists who have suffered from one, or more. As I said way back, going to timing belts was the worst thing the automotive industry ever inflicted on the motoring public. | |||
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" Did I say that the auxiliary/fan belt has anything to do with timing? Read my post again- I said that the auxiliary belt snaps and it, or pieces of it end up getting under the crank pulley, this makes the belt slip a tooth, throwing the timing out. So how do pieces of the auxiliary/fan/accessories belt(s), which are outside the engine, get under the timing belt crank pulley, which is inside the engine? I agree, non interference engines are the best option if it has a timing belt, but despite their inherent mechanical disadvantages, timing chains are a better option, for all the reasons I've stated. Just because you've never seen a snapped timing belt, doesn't diminish the pain and expense caused to thousands of motorists who have suffered from one, or more. As I said way back, going to timing belts was the worst thing the automotive industry ever inflicted on the motoring public." The timing belt is outside the engine, usually under a cover, which the auxiliary and balance belts also pass through. As the belt snaps it becomes a flail, often the auxiliary belt is also attached to a seperate pulley attached to the crank (not outside the engine at all) as it flails about it gets snagged by the timing belt and dragged round the crank pulley under the belt, this causes the timing belt to slip a tooth or two and then the timing is out and valve meets piston. It happened to me ex-mother in law a couple of months ago and I've seen it far more often than an actual snapped timing belt (that's been changed as it should). Having a geared timing set-up is a flawed idea. Far more to go wrong and increased maintenance. That's why no one uses it anymore. Chains may the best idea but they too have their problems, I've seen a few BMW's that have stripped teeth from their timing gear and let's not forget the issues with the VANOS system that BMW tried to cover up. | |||
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"Funny how threads end up miles away from the OP... Chain vs Belt - the fight continues... I've know belts last 40 to 50k longer than service intervals (you meet some rare customers in our trade)... I'm a timing chain lover myself... Although in the bedroom belts are more comfortable than chains for restraint $- On the OP subject, worst bulbs I had to change were the H2S HIDs on an early E60 5-series BMW - bumper off & headlight out IIRC what a PITA " It's rarely ever a belt snapping, usually it's a water pump or failed tensioner. Its still a good idea to change the belts before the specified age/mileage interval though. Headlight bulbs....they're all a pain in the arse! | |||
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"I must admit, I'm really impressed at the ladies in this thread that know how to change a bulb, especially on some of the trickier cars, good on you for giving it a go and defeating the usual stereotype " always done stuff myself (or will have a go) -left home to live alone- ex used to do bugger all - and independant again - | |||
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"All the engines I've ever worked on or looked at, have their auxiliary/fan/services belt(s) completely external to the engine, passing over their respective pulleys and tensioners. Yes, the timing belt can be considered "outside" the engine, but again, all the engines I have ever looked at, have the valve timing gear behind a sealed cover. Otherwise, no end of crap, sludge and detritus would get into the valve timing gear causing premature wear and possible jamming. To have the auxiliary/fan/accessories belt(s) driven by the valve timing gear is just plain mad, though given that most stuff these days seems to be designed by a yts with an nvq in pizza box design, nothing would surprise me. A timing chain is on the wet side of the engine, fully sealed, otherwise the oil would leak out. You said that this problem with the fan/etc. belts snapping and fouling the crank pulley, also affected timing chain engines. So how does it get past the oil seals and gaskets to do this? Yes I know gear driven timing, push rods etc. are mechanically outdated - that's why they went to overhead cam shafts, driven by chains. But hey, whatever. I'll continue to favour engines with timing chains, and keep the money I would otherwise have to spend on timing/cam belt replacements, plus sleep easy, knowing I'm extremely unlikely to have a catastrophic failure. " So you've never seen an engine that powers it's alternator fron the crank?! Nearly all modern front wheel drive cars do, hence the issue with the timing being thrown out when the auxiliary belt snaps. Whichever people decide, routine maintenance and regular servicing is key to an engines longevity, it think we can all agree on that. Anyway. I've just seen that I've got a headlight bulb blown on my car (seriously), it's an Alfa GT so I'm guessing that I'll end up stripping the back seats out or something ridiculous I'll report back on my endeavour! | |||
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"It's not just cars (had a Smart car, needed to be a gynacologist to change the bulbs on that) , motorbikes can be just as bad!" Where,s me scalpel nurse..I see in one of the daily papers Yesterday the mini was voted britains Best Car and the best car manufacturer was lotus.. | |||
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" So you've never seen an engine that powers it's alternator fron the crank?! Nearly all modern front wheel drive cars do, hence the issue with the timing being thrown out when the auxiliary belt snaps. " They all power the alternator/etc belt(s) from the crank, but the pulley is completely outside the engine. The valve gear, which obviously is also driven from the crank, is completely behind a cover, to keep crap out, so in all the engines I've ever seen, there's no way shards of rubber from the alternator/etc belt(s) can get anywhere near the valve gear - it's sealed, for good reasons. | |||
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" So you've never seen an engine that powers it's alternator fron the crank?! Nearly all modern front wheel drive cars do, hence the issue with the timing being thrown out when the auxiliary belt snaps. They all power the alternator/etc belt(s) from the crank, but the pulley is completely outside the engine. The valve gear, which obviously is also driven from the crank, is completely behind a cover, to keep crap out, so in all the engines I've ever seen, there's no way shards of rubber from the alternator/etc belt(s) can get anywhere near the valve gear - it's sealed, for good reasons." It gets in there, believe me. The belt hits the cover with a hell of a lot of force and that thin piece of metal offers no protection at all, just do a Google search and you'll see literally thousands of stories of it happening, especially on Renault DCI engines. | |||
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"Oh, there's also an opening for the auxiliary belt pulley in the cover, how else do they mount an exposed pulley to the crank?" | |||
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"Oh, there's also an opening for the auxiliary belt pulley in the cover, how else do they mount an exposed pulley to the crank?" And it will have a seal or bearing, which whilst not necessarily completely oil tight like that of a drive shaft, will be sufficiently resilient and snug to keep chunks of rubber out. I can understand how the flailing of a snapped alternator belt might penetrate the timing gear cover of a French car - the cover is probably made of parma ham or something, but on a proper engine, it's a solid casting. | |||
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"Oh, there's also an opening for the auxiliary belt pulley in the cover, how else do they mount an exposed pulley to the crank? And it will have a seal or bearing, which whilst not necessarily completely oil tight like that of a drive shaft, will be sufficiently resilient and snug to keep chunks of rubber out. I can understand how the flailing of a snapped alternator belt might penetrate the timing gear cover of a French car - the cover is probably made of parma ham or something, but on a proper engine, it's a solid casting." Having a seal or bearing would make inspection a nightmare, I've never seen a car with that set-up in the 20yrs I've been playing with cars, which includes changing my own belts. Usually it's just an 18 gauge stamped piece of steel that's either screwed or clipped into place so it's easy to remove for inspection. That being said, I've not worked on any of the newer BMW's or Mercs and I don't keep up with their current line-up so can't comment on them. | |||
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