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"So I'm thinking of taking up photography as a hobby but I really don't know what camera to go for. I don't mind spending money if the camera gets really good, clear pics. Are there any photographers out there who can recommend a decent camera? I've done a little research and there's so much choice out there; DSLRs, bridge cameras, mirrorless etc. " Hey great ti hear you have an interest in photography , for me it’s been a life passion and in the last 10 years really had time for photoshoots and learning more. So last year I needed a camera to take to the desert and up mount Siinai that would likely be destroyed by sand and me falling over etc so doesn’t want to pay much. I needed it light and easy to use , and cheap but good quality sensor and option for a range of cheap lens. I got a Panasonic GX7 for £100 off Gumtree. I haven’t used anything since. You can’t go wrong with this , it’s so simple to use and good spec, you won’t ever need anything else I have maybe 15 lens for it now from Street, 12-32 versatile pancake for just £50 , wide angle, zoom 75-150, 150-300, ( all numbers are 4/3 btw) and high end portrait prime lens (was over £1000) . Get the pancake lens above, tripod for long exposures ( I use Manfretto carbon with different heads ) and spare batteries and you’re set then get out and shoot ! | |||
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"Dont worry about kit descent cheap dslr and a couple of kit lenses from second hand shop will do you fine .then just go out and practice learn the light triangle and what each alteration affects .i took same shot of an apple on the table lit by window light altered shutter speed then iso then fstops to see what changes they produced learned a lot from that exercise use auto as a guide at first then experiment on manual settings .good luck and have fun what ever you shoot and remember the camera doesent take good pictures you do wether using a topspec dslr or a box brownie ." I think as a beginner the big mistake I made was auto mode , once in its hard to get out. Just learn ISO and exposure compensation from day 1 and put in AP mode. Then learn S Then look at histograms I think that’s all there is to learn Then stop worrying about tech and learn composition, it’s much more important than tech | |||
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"Really good advice everyone, thank you. I should have mentioned that I plan to take photos of landscapes as I like to take walks at all times of the year but I also enjoy watching sport live so a camera which could work for both would be ideal. " You'll be wanting two different lenses for those so choose a camera body with interchangeable lenses. | |||
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"So I'm thinking of taking up photography as a hobby but I really don't know what camera to go for. I don't mind spending money if the camera gets really good, clear pics. Are there any photographers out there who can recommend a decent camera? I've done a little research and there's so much choice out there; DSLRs, bridge cameras, mirrorless etc. " Depends what you'd like to shoot I've a full frame DSLR for landscapes and portraits (but wish I went for mirrorless like the fuji xt4) For wildlife, bridge cameras are great for their powerful zooms, but if you want to be more serious a crop sensor camera with a long lens might be better | |||
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"Go for a mirrorless as it is the future. As for the size of the CMOS it reallY doesn’t matter unless you want do portraits or print large The brand doesn’t matter as any brands will offer great cameras. What is your budget so I can narrow it down Pm me. " Mirrorless isn't always the best option for sport. Generally great for portraits and landscapes. Also much more user friendly for the beginner because what you see in the EVF is what you get - every adjustment to shutter speed, aperture and ISO is seen immediately so it's far easier to get the correct exposure. Mastering manual settings on a DSLR is far harder and takes much more practice. Full frame gives you more scope to crop without losing detail and will work much better in low light due to larger pixels. The difference between a 24MP crop sensor camera and a full frame is huge. No need to enter the megapixel war and go for the highest number. A D5 or 1DXiii has 20MP. Less than the most common option of 24MP yet both awesome bits of kit. Sure, a 61Mp A7Riv produces beautifully detailed, super sharp photos but can be less impressive than a 12MP A7s when shooting in the dark. Most people will seldom change brand once they start buying decent lenses as it's the glass that lasts rather than the body and changing systems completely can be bloody expensive. And it's rarely worth upgrading to a new model til you've well and truly battered what you have. All older cameras suited pros on release and were the 'latest and greatest' and they'll still take good images decades later. Technological advances these days are minimal and relate mostly to frame rates, autofocus and video capability, rather than anything necessary to take a decent still image. My top tip? Never buy new and if you do hit the grey market. They all come off the same production line and will be significantly cheaper. A | |||
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"Go for a mirrorless as it is the future. As for the size of the CMOS it reallY doesn’t matter unless you want do portraits or print large The brand doesn’t matter as any brands will offer great cameras. What is your budget so I can narrow it down Pm me. Mirrorless isn't always the best option for sport. Generally great for portraits and landscapes. Also much more user friendly for the beginner because what you see in the EVF is what you get - every adjustment to shutter speed, aperture and ISO is seen immediately so it's far easier to get the correct exposure. Mastering manual settings on a DSLR is far harder and takes much more practice. Full frame gives you more scope to crop without losing detail and will work much better in low light due to larger pixels. The difference between a 24MP crop sensor camera and a full frame is huge. No need to enter the megapixel war and go for the highest number. A D5 or 1DXiii has 20MP. Less than the most common option of 24MP yet both awesome bits of kit. Sure, a 61Mp A7Riv produces beautifully detailed, super sharp photos but can be less impressive than a 12MP A7s when shooting in the dark. Most people will seldom change brand once they start buying decent lenses as it's the glass that lasts rather than the body and changing systems completely can be bloody expensive. And it's rarely worth upgrading to a new model til you've well and truly battered what you have. All older cameras suited pros on release and were the 'latest and greatest' and they'll still take good images decades later. Technological advances these days are minimal and relate mostly to frame rates, autofocus and video capability, rather than anything necessary to take a decent still image. My top tip? Never buy new and if you do hit the grey market. They all come off the same production line and will be significantly cheaper. A" Oh yes mirrorless weren’t the best option for sport a few years ago maybe but now with the Sony A1, Canon R3 and Nikon Z9 the game has changed. Plus all brands announced that they won’t make any more DSLR anymore. But you could find decent one as the one you mentioned in second hand and canon has sold more lenses than any brands so Canon would be a great option. I agree full frame and crop CMOS aren’t on the same level but if you don’t know how to use it in the first place even if you get a medium format, a guy with an iPhone (1 inche sensor) can still do better picture (to some extent). Yes you should buy them to a trusted retailer. | |||
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"Go for a mirrorless as it is the future. As for the size of the CMOS it reallY doesn’t matter unless you want do portraits or print large The brand doesn’t matter as any brands will offer great cameras. What is your budget so I can narrow it down Pm me. Mirrorless isn't always the best option for sport. Generally great for portraits and landscapes. Also much more user friendly for the beginner because what you see in the EVF is what you get - every adjustment to shutter speed, aperture and ISO is seen immediately so it's far easier to get the correct exposure. Mastering manual settings on a DSLR is far harder and takes much more practice. Full frame gives you more scope to crop without losing detail and will work much better in low light due to larger pixels. The difference between a 24MP crop sensor camera and a full frame is huge. No need to enter the megapixel war and go for the highest number. A D5 or 1DXiii has 20MP. Less than the most common option of 24MP yet both awesome bits of kit. Sure, a 61Mp A7Riv produces beautifully detailed, super sharp photos but can be less impressive than a 12MP A7s when shooting in the dark. Most people will seldom change brand once they start buying decent lenses as it's the glass that lasts rather than the body and changing systems completely can be bloody expensive. And it's rarely worth upgrading to a new model til you've well and truly battered what you have. All older cameras suited pros on release and were the 'latest and greatest' and they'll still take good images decades later. Technological advances these days are minimal and relate mostly to frame rates, autofocus and video capability, rather than anything necessary to take a decent still image. My top tip? Never buy new and if you do hit the grey market. They all come off the same production line and will be significantly cheaper. A Oh yes mirrorless weren’t the best option for sport a few years ago maybe but now with the Sony A1, Canon R3 and Nikon Z9 the game has changed. Plus all brands announced that they won’t make any more DSLR anymore. But you could find decent one as the one you mentioned in second hand and canon has sold more lenses than any brands so Canon would be a great option. I agree full frame and crop CMOS aren’t on the same level but if you don’t know how to use it in the first place even if you get a medium format, a guy with an iPhone (1 inche sensor) can still do better picture (to some extent). Yes you should buy them to a trusted retailer. " Great bits of kit but few have got the funds to blow £5k+ on any of those three. And the autofocus isn't five times better than cameras a fifth of the price. Great if you need to spray and pray with high frame rates but with the file sizes those beasts chuck out you're giving yourself a major headache sifting through a couple of hundred frames from a few seconds of burst to find 'that' image. May as well just shoot a 4K video and pull an 8MP still frame from that if you can't get your timing right. A | |||
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"Go for a mirrorless as it is the future. As for the size of the CMOS it reallY doesn’t matter unless you want do portraits or print large The brand doesn’t matter as any brands will offer great cameras. What is your budget so I can narrow it down Pm me. Mirrorless isn't always the best option for sport. Generally great for portraits and landscapes. Also much more user friendly for the beginner because what you see in the EVF is what you get - every adjustment to shutter speed, aperture and ISO is seen immediately so it's far easier to get the correct exposure. Mastering manual settings on a DSLR is far harder and takes much more practice. Full frame gives you more scope to crop without losing detail and will work much better in low light due to larger pixels. The difference between a 24MP crop sensor camera and a full frame is huge. No need to enter the megapixel war and go for the highest number. A D5 or 1DXiii has 20MP. Less than the most common option of 24MP yet both awesome bits of kit. Sure, a 61Mp A7Riv produces beautifully detailed, super sharp photos but can be less impressive than a 12MP A7s when shooting in the dark. Most people will seldom change brand once they start buying decent lenses as it's the glass that lasts rather than the body and changing systems completely can be bloody expensive. And it's rarely worth upgrading to a new model til you've well and truly battered what you have. All older cameras suited pros on release and were the 'latest and greatest' and they'll still take good images decades later. Technological advances these days are minimal and relate mostly to frame rates, autofocus and video capability, rather than anything necessary to take a decent still image. My top tip? Never buy new and if you do hit the grey market. They all come off the same production line and will be significantly cheaper. A Oh yes mirrorless weren’t the best option for sport a few years ago maybe but now with the Sony A1, Canon R3 and Nikon Z9 the game has changed. Plus all brands announced that they won’t make any more DSLR anymore. But you could find decent one as the one you mentioned in second hand and canon has sold more lenses than any brands so Canon would be a great option. I agree full frame and crop CMOS aren’t on the same level but if you don’t know how to use it in the first place even if you get a medium format, a guy with an iPhone (1 inche sensor) can still do better picture (to some extent). Yes you should buy them to a trusted retailer. Great bits of kit but few have got the funds to blow £5k+ on any of those three. And the autofocus isn't five times better than cameras a fifth of the price. Great if you need to spray and pray with high frame rates but with the file sizes those beasts chuck out you're giving yourself a major headache sifting through a couple of hundred frames from a few seconds of burst to find 'that' image. May as well just shoot a 4K video and pull an 8MP still frame from that if you can't get your timing right. A" Oh yes they are very expensive but yes the autofocus is outstanding. Honestly you can’t compare. I have been testing them all and compare to DSLR you definitely can feel the difference. Especially Sony. The fastest and the most accurate autofocus on the market right now. Followed by Nikon I’d say and canon. You’d have 19 on 20 pictures that are perfectly focused. But totally pointless to spend that much of money if it is to use a third of the potential of the camera. I’d personally go for an older fujifilm mirrorless. Cheap X-T20 or XE3 (what I currently use) with a prime. To start with. At least it suits what I do. It wouldn’t be the best option for sport. | |||
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"It doesn't matter how good the camera is. It's the artist behind it that creates the shots. " Couldn’t agree more with you. But if you are creative, good gear will let your take that creativeness to another levels. | |||
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"It doesn't matter how good the camera is. It's the artist behind it that creates the shots. " this | |||
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"Really good advice everyone, thank you. I should have mentioned that I plan to take photos of landscapes as I like to take walks at all times of the year but I also enjoy watching sport live so a camera which could work for both would be ideal. " It doesn’t matter what you shoot. As a beginner you need to ignore most of the advice here. Get a camera that feels right, the mirrorless / four thirds advice is the right advice. Personally I would avoid the Olympus & Sony , too geeky and horrible menus like using a computer instead of a camera. Get a GX7 , you won’t regret it | |||
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"Great advice and info from all. Thank you. I'm going to go for a mirrorless, as most have suggested already but it sounds like the future too. I'll read up a bit more and then look to treat myself in the next week or so. Any further advice or opinions would be great. " Good choice. Look at lens prices on mpb and don’t get confused with four thirds and micro four thirds , they are different My lenses for the GX7 will also fit Olympus cameras and vice Versa but I wouldn’t touch Olympus. Some lens might be compatible on the body but won’t drive the autofocus or AP, not a problem if you want to manually operate that lens. The good thing on Mpb is you can sell your lens back to them easily. Second hand lens in good condition are great , some will be ranked very good or excellent but with dust particles in chamber , I’ve never had an issue with this. If buying second had body ask to see a screenshot of the shutter count it’s more important than the age Get a decent tripod ,and tripod head. I prefer carbon for travel and 4-section for packing in a day bag. My mamfrotto pro geared head weighs a ton but essential for fine adjustments - architecture , landscape. For wind/waves you want a very sturdy tripod. Think about if you really need waterproof or not - it costs a lot more. Cable release is useful for long exposure so you don’t nudge the camera. Silent shutter is good for nervous models | |||
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" If you want to do landscape or street photography then the lighting is dictated by time of day, weather and your position relative to the light source. Sun, street light or whatever. If this is the case then your whole budget can go on the camera. " I do a lot of street in African cities and for most of my shots , opportunity & composition is way more important than a bit of noise or over/under exposure. The way I was taught , by a street pro , if you are moving around a lot in and out of different light settings is put it in AP mode then switch onnauto ISO. | |||
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" If you want to do landscape or street photography then the lighting is dictated by time of day, weather and your position relative to the light source. Sun, street light or whatever. If this is the case then your whole budget can go on the camera. I do a lot of street in African cities and for most of my shots , opportunity & composition is way more important than a bit of noise or over/under exposure. The way I was taught , by a street pro , if you are moving around a lot in and out of different light settings is put it in AP mode then switch onnauto ISO. " Lighting in photography is so much more than having enough level for exposure. | |||
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" If you want to do landscape or street photography then the lighting is dictated by time of day, weather and your position relative to the light source. Sun, street light or whatever. If this is the case then your whole budget can go on the camera. I do a lot of street in African cities and for most of my shots , opportunity & composition is way more important than a bit of noise or over/under exposure. The way I was taught , by a street pro , if you are moving around a lot in and out of different light settings is put it in AP mode then switch onnauto ISO. Lighting in photography is so much more than having enough level for exposure. " Lighting in photography is whatever you want it to be. My photography is art so I make the rules myself | |||
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" If you want to do landscape or street photography then the lighting is dictated by time of day, weather and your position relative to the light source. Sun, street light or whatever. If this is the case then your whole budget can go on the camera. I do a lot of street in African cities and for most of my shots , opportunity & composition is way more important than a bit of noise or over/under exposure. The way I was taught , by a street pro , if you are moving around a lot in and out of different light settings is put it in AP mode then switch onnauto ISO. Lighting in photography is so much more than having enough level for exposure. Lighting in photography is whatever you want it to be. My photography is art so I make the rules myself " You would be well advised to do yourself a favour and learn about lighting. Expression through art is great but you should learn the technical skills of your chosen medium. Less deflection and more development. | |||
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"A little tip.. There are many decent camera body's to choose from, even quality second hand, so my tip is to invest in top quality lenses, obviously as much as your budget can stretch to. After 20 years in the game its a tip i always pass on. Hope that's some help. " this | |||
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