FabSwingers.com mobile

Join us FREE, we're FREE to use

Web's largest swingers site since 2006.

Already registered?
Login here

Back to forum list
Back to The Lounge

Carpenters/Kitchen Fitters - Worktop Advice

Jump to newest
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago

I've just moved into a property with wooden worktops (nevr had them before) and am trying to find out a bit more about looking after them.

They look varnished to me (I'm no expert) but apparently according to Google this is very unlikely. How do I tell?

I don't have contact with the old owner so can't just ask them.

I'm really paranoid about looking after them as I know water marks and such are an issue, and they aren't something I could afford to replace.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago

Solid wood worktops are pretty rare OP. Is it possible they are actually Formica with a wood-effect veneer ? If so they are much more durable, stain resistant and easy care than solid wood.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago

They should be oiled only

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago

They're probably oiled, not varnished. I oil mine a couple of times a year but they recommend every three months I think.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago


"Solid wood worktops are pretty rare OP. Is it possible they are actually Formica with a wood-effect veneer ? If so they are much more durable, stain resistant and easy care than solid wood."

No, they are wood - I can tell by the edges where its around my sink (there's a cut out with a belfast sink under).

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago

Osma oil

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago


"They're probably oiled, not varnished. I oil mine a couple of times a year but they recommend every three months I think."

Do I need to find out/use the same oil as before?

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago


"Osma oil"

Thanks, I'll Google it. I keep reading about Danish oil when I look.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site)
over a year ago


"Solid wood worktops are pretty rare OP. Is it possible they are actually Formica with a wood-effect veneer ? If so they are much more durable, stain resistant and easy care than solid wood.

No, they are wood - I can tell by the edges where its around my sink (there's a cut out with a belfast sink under)."

You can see in some of my pics I have solid oak worktops in my kitchen with a double Belfast. (Fitted then myself )

I use danish oil on mine.

Never leave a wet cloth on them.

Never leave a damp tin can on them (it makes a black ring)

Don’t use the drainer area for draining things. (Sounds daft, I know). The drainer grooves have opened the grain up and made it even more vulnerable to water. I used to suggest my customers got a freestanding drainer instead.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago


"Solid wood worktops are pretty rare OP. Is it possible they are actually Formica with a wood-effect veneer ? If so they are much more durable, stain resistant and easy care than solid wood.

No, they are wood - I can tell by the edges where its around my sink (there's a cut out with a belfast sink under).

You can see in some of my pics I have solid oak worktops in my kitchen with a double Belfast. (Fitted then myself )

I use danish oil on mine.

Never leave a wet cloth on them.

Never leave a damp tin can on them (it makes a black ring)

Don’t use the drainer area for draining things. (Sounds daft, I know). The drainer grooves have opened the grain up and made it even more vulnerable to water. I used to suggest my customers got a freestanding drainer instead. "

Thanks for the tips. I'm just so paranoid about buggering them up and have never owned them before. They look nice but seem like such an unsuitable material for a worktop!

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By *aul1973HullMan
over a year ago

East Hull

Osmo oil is good, there are many different oil finishes available... Danish oil , boiled linseed oil ect ect. It shouldnt be a problem if you apply a different oil to what its already been treated with but i would suggest trying it on a small inconspicuous area first to see if there's a bad reaction.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago

I've already put on stain on it (which I will have to apparently sand).

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago


"Osmo oil is good, there are many different oil finishes available... Danish oil , boiled linseed oil ect ect. It shouldnt be a problem if you apply a different oil to what its already been treated with but i would suggest trying it on a small inconspicuous area first to see if there's a bad reaction."

Alright cool. Thanks for the help.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 

By *ecretlivesCouple
over a year ago

FABWatch HQ

Wood is a lot easier than people imagine, and also a lot more common with modern manufacturing enabling long run finger joints. Small chunks made into big stable boards. Generally 35mm+ thick. Easiest to spot at board ends.

Two main woods - beech (light) and european oak (darker tight grain).

Water based acrylic ok but avoid polyurethane. Ideally seal with linseed or water-based emulsion oil. Dry, repeat (a lot...). Ikea do boards, alongside own treatments like Behandla.

Biggest enemy of oak is not water but iron oxide reacting with tannin. Leaving wet tins/coins keys on surface for a length of time = bad news and black stains. Sand out and reseal.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
 
 

By (user no longer on site) OP   
over a year ago


"Wood is a lot easier than people imagine, and also a lot more common with modern manufacturing enabling long run finger joints. Small chunks made into big stable boards. Generally 35mm+ thick. Easiest to spot at board ends.

Two main woods - beech (light) and european oak (darker tight grain).

Water based acrylic ok but avoid polyurethane. Ideally seal with linseed or water-based emulsion oil. Dry, repeat (a lot...). Ikea do boards, alongside own treatments like Behandla.

Biggest enemy of oak is not water but iron oxide reacting with tannin. Leaving wet tins/coins keys on surface for a length of time = bad news and black stains. Sand out and reseal. "

Thank you.

Reply privatelyReply in forumReply +quote
Post new Message to Thread
back to top