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"You should have traded up to the Gixxer Thou "No point, 750 is plenty fast enough, super agile. You'd have to be on a track to get left behind, and even then only on the straight | |||
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"You should have traded up to the Gixxer Thou
No point, 750 is plenty fast enough, super agile. You'd have to be on a track to get left behind, and even then only on the straight"Not really. I had a K6 750 as I was enticed by the deal they had running on the bikes from new. 6 months and a traded it for the thou. Your getting near identical frame and controls but with more power and torque. It's a defunct class with regards to modern machines. | |||
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"You should have traded up to the Gixxer Thou
No point, 750 is plenty fast enough, super agile. You'd have to be on a track to get left behind, and even then only on the straight"Have to agree the 2011 onwards gixer 750 is the perfect sportsbike for the road, and I've had the K5 gixer thou. | |||
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"You should have traded up to the Gixxer Thou
No point, 750 is plenty fast enough, super agile. You'd have to be on a track to get left behind, and even then only on the straight
Have to agree the 2011 onwards gixer 750 is the perfect sportsbike for the road, and I've had the K5 gixer thou. "I'm on an immaculate L1, even though the K5-K8 look nicer in some ways, the L1 is better for the road  . To be honest anyone Shooting past me is either too close to the edge for my liking or just a plain nutter  | |||
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"I really don't see the fascination with a modern 750 sports bike. The modern 600's are easily pushing 125+ bhp. For the extra price of the 750 it doesn't really seem viable for a 15hp increase. The litre class bike can easily produce 200bhp out the box or with the right fettling. With Suzuki using near identical components between the 750 and the thou, money wise it doesn't make sense if you are buying a road bike. But hey if you like it I'm not judging it's a very capable bike. " If you go back to the 600/750 SRAD Gixxers there was no thou & the 750 was much more than just a bigger cc 600. Better suspension, brakes etc. to go along with the extra cc. I had a 2000 750Y never wanted for anything faster on track or road. Think is with a 600/750 you need to ride them, you want to play? You need to come off that turn or roundabout at 10,000 rpm & pin that throttle & for many that is just a bit much. So they buy a thou because it’s easier to do those things using torque rather than high revs & the bhp that lives there. Without a shadow of a doubt on the road you do not need 1000cc & 180-200 bhp, most road riders never get close to using much above 1/2 of their bikes available power & many will only come close to using it in a straight line. Many a ride out I’ve been on the 600/750/v-twins will be up the sharp end going cross country just to get Johnny big bollocks fly past on a short stretch of dual carriageway only to get in the way on the next set of turns. It’s not all obviously but there’s an awful lot of them out there that buy their speed with little idea how to ride it properly because it scares them. Funniest was on a favourite Sunday morning section& I caught a Panigali & a KRM RC8R. Followed them, decided they were not quick enough although they were not slow, so I passed them. They came over at the cafe & asked after the bike etc. I’d lived in the area twenty years & did that road regularly, my bike was/is a 28yr old BMW K100RS 4valve with a 230kg dry weight & paultry 110bhp. Oh & I ride a very updated more powerful & lighter TL1080S v-twin, a YZF750 & the BMW. I also bought a new Busa back in 99 but sold it within a year as it was boring. Speed isn’t everything. S | |||
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"I really don't see the fascination with a modern 750 sports bike. The modern 600's are easily pushing 125+ bhp. For the extra price of the 750 it doesn't really seem viable for a 15hp increase. The litre class bike can easily produce 200bhp out the box or with the right fettling. With Suzuki using near identical components between the 750 and the thou, money wise it doesn't make sense if you are buying a road bike. But hey if you like it I'm not judging it's a very capable bike. If you go back to the 600/750 SRAD Gixxers there was no thou & the 750 was much more than just a bigger cc 600. Better suspension, brakes etc. to go along with the extra cc. I had a 2000 750Y never wanted for anything faster on track or road. Think is with a 600/750 you need to ride them, you want to play? You need to come off that turn or roundabout at 10,000 rpm & pin that throttle & for many that is just a bit much. So they buy a thou because it’s easier to do those things using torque rather than high revs & the bhp that lives there. Without a shadow of a doubt on the road you do not need 1000cc & 180-200 bhp, most road riders never get close to using much above 1/2 of their bikes available power & many will only come close to using it in a straight line. Many a ride out I’ve been on the 600/750/v-twins will be up the sharp end going cross country just to get Johnny big bollocks fly past on a short stretch of dual carriageway only to get in the way on the next set of turns. It’s not all obviously but there’s an awful lot of them out there that buy their speed with little idea how to ride it properly because it scares them. Funniest was on a favourite Sunday morning section& I caught a Panigali & a KRM RC8R. Followed them, decided they were not quick enough although they were not slow, so I passed them. They came over at the cafe & asked after the bike etc. I’d lived in the area twenty years & did that road regularly, my bike was/is a 28yr old BMW K100RS 4valve with a 230kg dry weight & paultry 110bhp. Oh & I ride a very updated more powerful & lighter TL1080S v-twin, a YZF750 & the BMW. I also bought a new Busa back in 99 but sold it within a year as it was boring. Speed isn’t everything. S " Your right the didn't have a thou, but they had an 1100
The motorcycle industry has always followed the old philosophy of cubic capacity, but as technology and materials have progressed allowing for higher horsepower and less weight.
Years ago the differences were apparent in models, but now apart from the bore and stroke manufacturers use the same components to across the model range.
The 750's were always considered the race bred versions following the hologlomation examples back in the 90s. I own an L3 ZXR750 (non hoover hose) but its more of an ornament now as you need to push it to get the optimum response.
My daily rider is a K1200S which is weighs the same as a small hatchback, and its not a kick in the arse of 200 horse.
But the torque curve on the gixer thou is just fantastic. I had a go on the ZX10 and found it stupid fast but it was set in the mid range which meant there was a fine line between changing down to avoid bogging it and pointing the front wheel skyward. | |||
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"I'm currently converting a 1987 GSXR750H into a classic race bike. So far I've fitted SV650 wheels to be able to get decent tyres and 750K1 calipers. Plus lots of other touching up and lots of cleaning. I have new, bodywork, rearsets and rear shock to fit. The bike hasn't ran in over 5 years, I took the valve cover of to spray and adjust the valve clearances only to find the bolts holding it on screw into the cam caps had been overtightened and the threads were gone. Waiting for an engineer to repair, another long story. Hopefully will be completed this winter. " You might get away with inserts depending the casting. But like you say take it to a decent machine shop to centre the bores before drilling. I've seen a few ham fisted efforts with folks that have used a hand drill to drill out the casting, resulting in the bore of the drilling being squint. Yes the coil will fit but as soon as you tighten the bolt it will split the casting. Or It could be filled and re-threaded. Again it would take a decent machinist with a stripped block to do it correctly. I've a mate who is breaking his SV650 super twin track bike if you need anything. Cadwell has been quiet this year  | |||
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"I really don't see the fascination with a modern 750 sports bike. The modern 600's are easily pushing 125+ bhp. For the extra price of the 750 it doesn't really seem viable for a 15hp increase. The litre class bike can easily produce 200bhp out the box or with the right fettling. With Suzuki using near identical components between the 750 and the thou, money wise it doesn't make sense if you are buying a road bike. But hey if you like it I'm not judging it's a very capable bike. If you go back to the 600/750 SRAD Gixxers there was no thou & the 750 was much more than just a bigger cc 600. Better suspension, brakes etc. to go along with the extra cc. I had a 2000 750Y never wanted for anything faster on track or road. Think is with a 600/750 you need to ride them, you want to play? You need to come off that turn or roundabout at 10,000 rpm & pin that throttle & for many that is just a bit much. So they buy a thou because it’s easier to do those things using torque rather than high revs & the bhp that lives there. Without a shadow of a doubt on the road you do not need 1000cc & 180-200 bhp, most road riders never get close to using much above 1/2 of their bikes available power & many will only come close to using it in a straight line. Many a ride out I’ve been on the 600/750/v-twins will be up the sharp end going cross country just to get Johnny big bollocks fly past on a short stretch of dual carriageway only to get in the way on the next set of turns. It’s not all obviously but there’s an awful lot of them out there that buy their speed with little idea how to ride it properly because it scares them. Funniest was on a favourite Sunday morning section& I caught a Panigali & a KRM RC8R. Followed them, decided they were not quick enough although they were not slow, so I passed them. They came over at the cafe & asked after the bike etc. I’d lived in the area twenty years & did that road regularly, my bike was/is a 28yr old BMW K100RS 4valve with a 230kg dry weight & paultry 110bhp. Oh & I ride a very updated more powerful & lighter TL1080S v-twin, a YZF750 & the BMW. I also bought a new Busa back in 99 but sold it within a year as it was boring. Speed isn’t everything. S Your right the didn't have a thou, but they had an 1100
The motorcycle industry has always followed the old philosophy of cubic capacity, but as technology and materials have progressed allowing for higher horsepower and less weight.
Years ago the differences were apparent in models, but now apart from the bore and stroke manufacturers use the same components to across the model range.
The 750's were always considered the race bred versions following the hologlomation examples back in the 90s. I own an L3 ZXR750 (non hoover hose) but its more of an ornament now as you need to push it to get the optimum response.
My daily rider is a K1200S which is weighs the same as a small hatchback, and its not a kick in the arse of 200 horse.
But the torque curve on the gixer thou is just fantastic. I had a go on the ZX10 and found it stupid fast but it was set in the mid range which meant there was a fine line between changing down to avoid bogging it and pointing the front wheel skyward. "The 1100 went with the slingshot & by the time it went was a near 250kg barge with a claimed 150-155bhp at the crank though a fast barge
I love all the 90's RR models, though most were worse as roadbikes than their lesser siblings.
My 750Y with a full Akra system, K&N & set up on a dyno with a Yoshi box was a match everywhere for a mates 98 R1 with a Yoshi can even on boring straight line motorway roll on tests up to maxxed out.
Must have been a lot of driveline power loss in the R1's claimed bhp is all i'd say
S | |||
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"I'm currently converting a 1987 GSXR750H into a classic race bike. So far I've fitted SV650 wheels to be able to get decent tyres and 750K1 calipers. Plus lots of other touching up and lots of cleaning. I have new, bodywork, rearsets and rear shock to fit. The bike hasn't ran in over 5 years, I took the valve cover of to spray and adjust the valve clearances only to find the bolts holding it on screw into the cam caps had been overtightened and the threads were gone. Waiting for an engineer to repair, another long story. Hopefully will be completed this winter. You might get away with inserts depending the casting. But like you say take it to a decent machine shop to centre the bores before drilling. I've seen a few ham fisted efforts with folks that have used a hand drill to drill out the casting, resulting in the bore of the drilling being squint. Yes the coil will fit but as soon as you tighten the bolt it will split the casting. Or It could be filled and re-threaded. Again it would take a decent machinist with a stripped block to do it correctly. I've a mate who is breaking his SV650 super twin track bike if you need anything. Cadwell has been quiet this year "Somebody had already had a go at those threads. It might have he if they could drilled straight. 6 out of the 8 are knackered. I also never understand why people do them up so tight in the first place. | |||
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"I really don't see the fascination with a modern 750 sports bike. The modern 600's are easily pushing 125+ bhp. For the extra price of the 750 it doesn't really seem viable for a 15hp increase. The litre class bike can easily produce 200bhp out the box or with the right fettling. With Suzuki using near identical components between the 750 and the thou, money wise it doesn't make sense if you are buying a road bike. But hey if you like it I'm not judging it's a very capable bike. If you go back to the 600/750 SRAD Gixxers there was no thou & the 750 was much more than just a bigger cc 600. Better suspension, brakes etc. to go along with the extra cc. I had a 2000 750Y never wanted for anything faster on track or road. Think is with a 600/750 you need to ride them, you want to play? You need to come off that turn or roundabout at 10,000 rpm & pin that throttle & for many that is just a bit much. So they buy a thou because it’s easier to do those things using torque rather than high revs & the bhp that lives there. Without a shadow of a doubt on the road you do not need 1000cc & 180-200 bhp, most road riders never get close to using much above 1/2 of their bikes available power & many will only come close to using it in a straight line. Many a ride out I’ve been on the 600/750/v-twins will be up the sharp end going cross country just to get Johnny big bollocks fly past on a short stretch of dual carriageway only to get in the way on the next set of turns. It’s not all obviously but there’s an awful lot of them out there that buy their speed with little idea how to ride it properly because it scares them. Funniest was on a favourite Sunday morning section& I caught a Panigali & a KRM RC8R. Followed them, decided they were not quick enough although they were not slow, so I passed them. They came over at the cafe & asked after the bike etc. I’d lived in the area twenty years & did that road regularly, my bike was/is a 28yr old BMW K100RS 4valve with a 230kg dry weight & paultry 110bhp. Oh & I ride a very updated more powerful & lighter TL1080S v-twin, a YZF750 & the BMW. I also bought a new Busa back in 99 but sold it within a year as it was boring. Speed isn’t everything. S Your right the didn't have a thou, but they had an 1100
The motorcycle industry has always followed the old philosophy of cubic capacity, but as technology and materials have progressed allowing for higher horsepower and less weight.
Years ago the differences were apparent in models, but now apart from the bore and stroke manufacturers use the same components to across the model range.
The 750's were always considered the race bred versions following the hologlomation examples back in the 90s. I own an L3 ZXR750 (non hoover hose) but its more of an ornament now as you need to push it to get the optimum response.
My daily rider is a K1200S which is weighs the same as a small hatchback, and its not a kick in the arse of 200 horse.
But the torque curve on the gixer thou is just fantastic. I had a go on the ZX10 and found it stupid fast but it was set in the mid range which meant there was a fine line between changing down to avoid bogging it and pointing the front wheel skyward.
The 1100 went with the slingshot & by the time it went was a near 250kg barge with a claimed 150-155bhp at the crank though a fast barge
I love all the 90's RR models, though most were worse as roadbikes than their lesser siblings.
My 750Y with a full Akra system, K&N & set up on a dyno with a Yoshi box was a match everywhere for a mates 98 R1 with a Yoshi can even on boring straight line motorway roll on tests up to maxxed out.
Must have been a lot of driveline power loss in the R1's claimed bhp is all i'd say
S"I never modded the one I had. I dare say with a full system and a power commander it would have been a beast. It was yellow and black which never fully agreed with me as I originally wanted a blue and white one (it's a fact that the blue and white are faster ).
The dealer Jim Allen gave me a cracking deal on the thou so it was nearly a straight swap.
I didn't go down the Yoshi or Akra route, I managed to get a Termigoni system for a decent price. Its got a power commander, Nitron rear shock and Nitron fork Internals. Would love a set of BST carbon wheels but can't justify the price.
In saying that all the chuntering I'm doing about the 750 I've just been looking at some track bikes and there are some cracking bikes for sale.
Maybe next year when Cadwell is open again. | |||
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"I'm currently converting a 1987 GSXR750H into a classic race bike. So far I've fitted SV650 wheels to be able to get decent tyres and 750K1 calipers. Plus lots of other touching up and lots of cleaning. I have new, bodywork, rearsets and rear shock to fit. The bike hasn't ran in over 5 years, I took the valve cover of to spray and adjust the valve clearances only to find the bolts holding it on screw into the cam caps had been overtightened and the threads were gone. Waiting for an engineer to repair, another long story. Hopefully will be completed this winter. You might get away with inserts depending the casting. But like you say take it to a decent machine shop to centre the bores before drilling. I've seen a few ham fisted efforts with folks that have used a hand drill to drill out the casting, resulting in the bore of the drilling being squint. Yes the coil will fit but as soon as you tighten the bolt it will split the casting. Or It could be filled and re-threaded. Again it would take a decent machinist with a stripped block to do it correctly. I've a mate who is breaking his SV650 super twin track bike if you need anything. Cadwell has been quiet this year
Somebody had already had a go at those threads. It might have he if they could drilled straight. 6 out of the 8 are knackered.
I also never understand why people do them up so tight in the first place. "Same, Bane of my life as I work on them all day. Number of times you go to loosen something where someone tightening it has just gone over the point of no return & just left it & as soon as it sees a tool it snaps off rather than come out :-/ I cringe when I see people using 1/2" socket sets on bikes, No need anywhere for 1/2" maybe axles at most & it just screams Gorilla to me
Hope your man sorts it for you & have fun on track.
S | |||
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"I'm currently converting a 1987 GSXR750H into a classic race bike. So far I've fitted SV650 wheels to be able to get decent tyres and 750K1 calipers. Plus lots of other touching up and lots of cleaning. I have new, bodywork, rearsets and rear shock to fit. The bike hasn't ran in over 5 years, I took the valve cover of to spray and adjust the valve clearances only to find the bolts holding it on screw into the cam caps had been overtightened and the threads were gone. Waiting for an engineer to repair, another long story. Hopefully will be completed this winter. You might get away with inserts depending the casting. But like you say take it to a decent machine shop to centre the bores before drilling. I've seen a few ham fisted efforts with folks that have used a hand drill to drill out the casting, resulting in the bore of the drilling being squint. Yes the coil will fit but as soon as you tighten the bolt it will split the casting. Or It could be filled and re-threaded. Again it would take a decent machinist with a stripped block to do it correctly. I've a mate who is breaking his SV650 super twin track bike if you need anything. Cadwell has been quiet this year
Somebody had already had a go at those threads. It might have he if they could drilled straight. 6 out of the 8 are knackered.
I also never understand why people do them up so tight in the first place.
Same, Bane of my life as I work on them all day. Number of times you go to loosen something where someone tightening it has just gone over the point of no return & just left it & as soon as it sees a tool it snaps off rather than come out :-/
I cringe when I see people using 1/2" socket sets on bikes, No need anywhere for 1/2" maybe axles at most & it just screams Gorilla to me
Hope your man sorts it for you & have fun on track.
S"Oh thats my pet hate. Half inch set on 6mm fasteners. Or "hand tight" when its got three times the torque through it. Then there is the "just use it again it looks fine" brigade. Head and cam bolts are renowned for one use. | |||
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